Some animals, such as rabbits and guinea pigs, are herbivores. Others, like hamsters, are omnivorous. Finally, there are also carnivores like cats that cannot survive without meat.
All animals need to have their nutritional needs satisfied. However, this does not mean you can’t have a vegan dog. Vegan cats, though, are a lot trickier.
Can my dog have a vegan diet?
If you were to meet a species of animal for the first time and had to make an accurate guess about its diet, you would get lots of clues by looking at its teeth. The teeth of a dog, like the teeth of a bear, proclaim loud and clear that this animal is an omnivore – that is, one that eats both meat and vegetables. If you think of your dog as a domesticated wolf, you get a good idea of its natural diet.
However, as the panda proves, a supposed meat-eater can sometimes get by perfectly well on a vegan diet. A panda’s teeth are similar to any other bear’s – long canines for meat-eating and molars for grinding vegetation. And yet pandas don’t eat anything other than bamboo. So, if a bear can be vegan, does that mean you can have a vegan dog?
The answer is yes – but it’s a yes with lots of small print! A dog requires a diet that contains the fats and proteins it would get from meat. It is dangerous to ignore this basic need and simply feed your pet with whatever you please. Some dogs have delicate stomachs at the best of times, and a low-fat, high-fibre diet can cause potentially life-threatening problems. A diet that excludes meat should never be fed to a dog without the advice of a professional pet dietician.
The collagen, elastin and keratin found in meat diets are not easily replaced by vegi equivalents. Your dog will also need the ‘long chain’ omega-3 fats found in animal products such as egg, fish and some meats. Vegan omega-3 fats are not the same as animal-derived ones.
All of which presents a headache for the vegan dog owner. There are, however, products available that claim to let your dog live a healthy, meat-free life. Before you take the plunge, it is essential to seek professional, scientific advice and guidance. Compromise is usually the best choice here – a vegan diet supplemented by some of the animal-derived essentials. Crickets, for example, can provide lots of the amino acids and keratin a vegan diet lacks, and they’re 65% protein.
Can my cat have a vegan diet?
The compromise approach is even more important for cats. These are amongst the planet’s true carnivores, obtaining all their dietary requirements from other animals.
The main challenge with minimising the meat in a cat’s diet is that, unlike many mammals (including dogs), cats cannot produce certain proteins. They have to absorb these from the meat and fish in their diet. Amino acids are another issue – cats deficient in the animal-derived amino acid taurine, for example, usually succumb to a specific type of heart problem.
Even a fortified vegan cat food cannot be confidently recommended. Turn the situation on its head, and try to imagine weaning a rabbit onto a meat-only diet, and you get some idea of the challenge – and the ethics – involved.
There are some lab-grown ‘meat’ products in development, with vegan and vegetarian cat owners in mind. However, whether these will arrive – and remain – on the market any time soon is hard to guess.
For many vegan pet owners, there is a huge ethical issue involved in feeding the animals they share a space with. Ethics, however, include the animal’s needs too, and it’s an almost impossible issue to resolve when it comes to cats. If you are able to reduce but not eliminate the meat in your cat’s diet, that’s the safer option.
Top 10 pets for vegan households
There are, of course, plenty of other pets that don’t eat meat, or that eat some meat but can still thrive on a meat-free diet. Here are our ten favourites.
1. Rabbits. No problems here – rabbits are happy vegans, with diets based on hay and vegetables. You could argue that the soft pellets they eject and then eat are animal products of a sort, but they are simply semi-digested vegetation.
2. Guinea pigs. Like rabbits, these wonderful little characters thrive on a 100% vegan diet.
3. Hamsters. Most hamster owners give them store food, you don’t always know what’s in it. However, hamsters, like rats and mice, can do without meat.
4. Gerbils. Like hamsters, gerbils are omnivorous. They have sensitive stomachs and need a quality pellet mixture. Food that is too fresh can harm them.
5. Mice. Although they will eat pretty much anything in the wild, mice can thrive on vegan diets; but it is still best to use a food mix prepared specifically for them. This ensures that they will not be deficient in any of the vitamins and minerals they need.
6. Rats. These are the most omnivorous of rodents, but as long as you feed them a vegan mix that has been fortified with all the nutrients they need, they will thrive. Indeed, rats who eat too much animal fat tend to become fat and die prematurely.
7. Chickens. If you watch a free-range hen, it soon becomes clear that she will eat anything – grass, beetles, worms, and everything in your veg patch if you’re not careful! Most chicken feed emulates this mix of plant and animal products. However, it is possible to buy vegan chicken feed, and circumstantial evidence suggests that hens can thrive on it. However, they are likely to produce fewer eggs, and you will not be able to stop them scratching for worms and bugs, no matter how vegan the layers pellets are!
8. Budgies and parrots. Vegans will have no obstacles to face with budgies and parrots, unless the birds are being bred. Egg-brooding female birds need a protein boost, normally delivered via an egg-based food or cooked meat. Vegan alternatives are available, though.
9. Finches. Many finch species enjoy bugs and mealworms as treats, but these are not an essential part of an adult finch’s diet. These birds thrive on a mixture of seeds and fresh vegetables.
10. One for reptile fans. When you think of pet snakes and lizards, you probably have an image of dead mice or doomed crickets. However, there are a few commonly kept pet reptiles that eat a 100% vegan diet, the most popular being the Green iguana. Getting the balance of vegetables just right is very important for the animal’s health, but meat is certainly something you won’t have to worry about.
There is no shortage of choice when it comes to vegan pets. Keeping a vegan cat or dog is a much trickier proposition, though. And with all these animals, a balanced diet that matches the pet’s nutritional requirements should be your primary goal.
This entry was posted in Budgies
Rabbits are usually peaceful creatures who love to play and socialise with their owners. But what do you do if your rabbit starts showing signs of aggression? It’s tough to see your pet stressed, and it’s natural to want to help them. Here, we outline a few ways you can minimise bad bunny behaviour and start enjoying the time you spend with them again!
What is aggressive behaviour in rabbits?
There are two major kinds of aggression in rabbits, the most typical being defensive behaviour surrounding their habitat. If your rabbit bites when you reach your hand into their cage or hutch, it’s likely to be territorial defensive aggression. Another kind of aggressive behaviour occurs between your rabbits – for example if they are fighting each other to the point of injury.
It can be upsetting to see your bunny get hurt, and hard to know what to do. A small amount of fighting is natural between your pets, but if you can see blood on their fur or in the hutch then it’s possible that the anger is getting out of hand and the bites are getting nasty.
How to help with territorial aggression and biting
If your rabbits bite your hand – or try to – consider how and where you approach your pet. The hutch is often a bolt hole and ‘safe space’ for a bunny and is where they spend most of their lives. If you reach in unexpectedly, it is natural that they might be scared and defensive. Rabbits are prey animals in the wild and are especially jumpy when ‘cornered’ in their safe space!
You may find that if you start to interact with your rabbit in a non-hutch setting – such as a run or play area – you have more chance of a peaceful and happy interaction. Try sitting with your rabbit in the run for a few hours every day, and then begin to slowly approach with your fluffy friend’s favourite rabbit treats. After spending time like this, you may find that your rabbit starts coming to you more and more, and if the rabbit is initiating the approach, aggression is much less likely.
By spending time with your rabbit in this non-hutch environment, you are teaching your pet that you are not a predator, and that you can be trusted to approach them. Once the trust is established, you should be able to approach the rabbit in its rabbit hutch with no problems.
How to stop aggressive behaviour between your rabbits
If you have noticed fighting between your rabbits, and if this seems to be more than just their normal play fighting, you may need to think about how much space they have in their hutch. It could be that your rabbits have grown since you bought them, and their once spacious house is now a little too small for two. It could be that they have spent little time in the run over winter, and so they’ve become a little ‘house-bound’ in their hutch. Cabin fever affects humans and pets alike!
Whatever the reason for the bunnies’ bad moods, it is important that your rabbits should feel happy and relaxed in their hutch. The fighting will likely ease off if they have more elbow room. Rabbits are territorial animals, and they each need their own space as well as a shared space.
Try distracting your brawling bunnies by clapping your hands. The noise will distract them and will hopefully teach your rabbit not to fight. A particularly aggressive rabbit can be deterred by spraying water on their nose – but this isn’t something you want to be doing too often, so if, after the first few sprays, it isn’t making any difference, it’s time for Plan B.
If you decide to invest in a larger hutch but your rabbits continue to show aggressive behaviour, you may have to separate them into two different hutches. That’s Plan B!
The benefits of spaying rabbits
Spaying (also known as neutering) is the term for stopping your pet from having babies and is accomplished via surgery. If your rabbits were from a pet shop, it is likely that they have already been spayed – but if you got your rabbits from a friend, it’s always a good idea to take them to the vet and ask about spaying.
If your rabbit has not been spayed, they are much more likely to exhibit aggressive behaviour to you and any fellow bunny who shares their hutch.
It is common for owners to keep male rabbits or female rabbits in single-gender pairs, and this can lock them into a mating-related feud that neither can win. Your rabbits could be fighting over who is the most dominant in their shared territory, but this fighting is much less likely to occur if they have been spayed.
Equally, if you have decided to keep a male and female rabbit together, it is a good idea to get them spayed, as rabbits can have up to fifty baby bunnies a year! Fifty bunnies may sound cute but consider how difficult it could be to care for and house that many animals!
There are other benefits to spaying your rabbit other than reducing their aggression, such as reducing their chances of getting mammalian, ovarian or testicular cancer. Spayed rabbits are also much easier to train, and are more sociable generally.
If you have only recently brought your pet rabbit home, they may need a little time to get used to their new space and become comfortable. It is natural for any new pet to be nervous and skittish at first, and this could lead to a few aggressive behaviours, including biting, early on.
It’s important to know that your rabbit is more scared of you than you are of it, and that just because it has bitten you doesn’t mean that you won’t end up being the best of friends! If you feel nervous about establishing contact with the rabbit, talk to a friend who has had rabbits for a little longer, or check out some of the reassuring ‘how to’ guides available online.
Just remember that having a rabbit is hugely rewarding and it’s worth spending time hand-training your pet from the outset. As long as they have enough space and no aggressive ‘mating rivals’, they should be every bit as calm and cuddly as you could hope for.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
You can keep chickens with other pets when the proper preparations and precautions are in place. Some pets like cats and dogs may have an innate prey drive that chickens can trigger, so it’s important to take introductions slowly to ensure success. With these tips, you’ll be able to confidently introduce your current pets to your chickens, or introduce new pets to your existing flock with confidence.
Keeping chickens with dogs
Dogs are the most common pets in the world, with millions kept as pets across the country. So, if you’re among the many dog owners, adding chickens to your family is possible once you consider your dog’s temperament and trainability.
Assessing your dog
If you’re a dog owner, the first thing to consider is their temperament. Different dog breeds may also react differently to birds as part of their nature. For example, breeds like Labrador Retrievers or German Shorthair Pointers may become easily excited around birds due to their natural hunting and retrieving drives. Other breeds that may have increased prey drives include:
- Beagles
- Sighthounds like Greyhounds or Borzois
- Dachshunds
Regardless of their breed, if your dog becomes excited or overly curious around small animals, their behaviour will likely carry over to chickens. If your dog loses their mind over the birds at your backyard feeder, or drags you to investigate the park ducks on your evening walks, they’ll likely stress out your flock – and themselves.
Dogs without a prey drive or with little interest in birds will likely not pose a problem to your chickens, but all dogs react differently when new pets enter their territory. Usually, most dogs will adjust to the new backyard occupants just fine after an acclimation period. You will likely see your dog expressing interest in your chickens at first – hanging around and sniffing the coop. They may even express a desire to interact with your chickens through playful postures and behaviours. Understanding your dog’s body language around your chickens will help you determine what their relationship will be like.
Chickens are prey animals, and can be hurt easily. Dogs cannot play with chickens as they would with other dogs or even other pets. It’s important to teach your pup that chickens are fragile friends – not toys or something to hunt.
Teaching dogs to get along with chickens
Unless leashed walks make your dog overly excited, their first encounter with your chickens should be done with a dog collar and lead. Make sure their collar is tight enough that they don’t slip out, but not so tight that it’s uncomfortable. Walk your dog up to your chickens’ enclosure and let them sniff. Maintain a tight leash until you see your dog’s reaction, and allow the lead more slack slowly to reinforce good behaviour.
Let your dog watch you spend time with your chickens. This should be done with your chickens in the safety of a strong walk in chicken run. If your dog does more than sniff or hang around the run, take a step back and approach their interaction from a different angle.
It could take several weeks for your dog to fully accept your chickens. Some other ways to help your dogs adjust to your chickens include:
- Setting up chicken fencing around the outside of your flock’s run for your dog to observe them at a distance.
- If your dog has a run or playpen, place it next to your chickens’ run and slowly decrease the distance over several days until they are side-by-side.
- Reward your dog with their favourite treats each time they are calm around your chickens.
Make sure to never leave your dog unattended with your chickens – especially in the beginning. Even if they can’t get into the run with them, an excited dog’s barking can easily stress your flock out.
Keeping chickens with cats
Cats are more difficult to train than their canine counterparts, and are decidedly less predictable in their behaviour. But the good news is that most cats don’t see a large hen as potential prey the same way a dog might. Most cat owners will agree that their cats show little to no interest in their chickens. In fact, cats and chickens have a somewhat symbiotic relationship.
Birds and their feed attract rodents, which a cat would much prefer over your hens. So, when your cat is able to patrol your chickens’ surroundings, chances are good that any potential rodent problem will be nipped in the bud.
Some cats may show increased interest in your hens. This largely depends on your cat’s breed and temperament. Cats will pose a greater threat to chicks rather than grown hens, but by keeping your flock in a strong chicken coop and run, you’ll ensure they stay safe from your cat.
Keeping chickens with guinea pigs
It may be tempting to keep some cute cavies in with your chickens, but in reality it’s not wise. Chickens will likely pick on them, and with their short legs, guinea pigs can’t get away from them quickly. Their dietary requirements are also very different, and your chickens may eat your guinea pigs’ food in favor of their own, which means neither animal will be getting the nutrients they need. If you have cavies and want to house them near your chickens, it’s best for them to have their own guinea pig hutch and run.
Keeping chickens with rabbits
Rabbits on the other hand are fast enough to fend for themselves against chickens, and if raised together from a young age, can do well around chickens. Still, they require their own dietary needs and clean sleeping quarters. They don’t roost like chickens, so they’ll need their own burrowing space in the run or under the coop.
The easiest way to achieve this is by adding walk in chicken run partitions. This will allow you to create “rooms” for each species to ensure they all get what they need. You can open the partition doors to allow everyone to be together whenever you’d like, or create a third space as a common area.
Remember to try to give each species as much space as possible in their respective areas to make them feel safe and comfortable.
Chickens and other pets
Chickens can also mix happily with goats, and with female ducks (males will tends to bully them). Ironically, they do not mix with birds in an aviary. They will eat anything that falls to the aviary floor, but they will also happily peck the other birds whenever they can and may attract rats and mice, which will cause problems for the smaller birds.
If you live in a rural setting, you can keep chickens with other barnyard animals. Chickens mix happily with:
- Goats
- Sheep
- Cows
- Alpacas or llamas
- Pigs
- Female ducks, guinea fowl, peacocks, geese, or pheasants
Any other avian species kept with chickens should be docile and preferably female, as males can bully hens. Smaller birds like quail or pigeons will likely get pecked at by chickens, so it’s best to stick with larger birds as run-mates. Small pets like hamsters, gerbils, turtles, or frogs should never be kept with chickens – they will be pecked at and killed.
Omlet and your pets
Omlet has all of the pet products you need to keep your furry and feathered family members healthy and happy. Having multiple types of pets is exciting, and through our line of chicken coops, chicken runs, and walk in run partitions, you’ll be able to create a safe haven for all of your animals to enjoy. And, by knowing that Omlet products are protecting your flock, you can rest easy knowing that you’ve provided them with the best chicken housing solutions available.
This entry was posted in Budgies
Wondering how to teach your guinea pigs and rabbits new tricks? One of the most rewarding experiences you can have with your pets is through teaching them tricks— and it’s a lot easier than you might think. Rabbits and guinea pigs are social animals that benefit from spending time with their owners through learning and playing. Discover how teaching your pets new tricks is a fun way to build their trust and confidence.
How to start training your guinea pigs and rabbits
Training rabbits or guinea pigs is most effective when you can repeat it every day – even if it’s only for five or ten minutes. Not only will your pets appreciate the extra attention, but having a repeated routine will help them remember the tricks you’ve taught them.
To teach your guinea pigs and rabbits tricks, the first thing you’ll need is a quiet space free from distractions. Zippi Rabbit Runs and Playpens are ideal, giving you a secure and familiar space where you and your pets can focus. You will also need some of your rabbits’ and guinea pigs’ favourite treats to encourage them and reinforce their learning.
It can be helpful to separate your pets when training them, but some pets can benefit from learning from each other. For example, if you have an older trained rabbit and a young, untrained one, the young rabbit can learn tricks easier by copying their more experienced friend. And don’t worry about old dogs and new tricks – your pets are never too old to pick up new things.
Rabbit and guinea pig tricks for beginners
When you start to train your guinea pig or rabbit, it’s all about patience and perseverance. Your pet might not seem interested in learning initially, but as you continue to reinforce their learning with treats, you will find them routinely coming back for more. Start with something simple, such as “circling” — a perfect trick for both rabbits and guinea pigs.
Training your rabbit or guinea pig to circle
To teach your pet how to perform a circle, grip a treat tightly between your fingers and hold it close to your pet’s mouth. Then lead your pet around in a circle with the treat, so that it spins in a tight circle. Repeat this until your pet spins around without you leading them, occasionally reinforcing them with the treat. It’s important that you only give them a reinforcement treat when they successfully do the trick. Eventually, the flick of your wrist will be all the encouragement that your pet needs to perform this trick — provided that there’s a treat in store for them after their performance.
Don’t worry if this takes some time to learn – the first trick can be the hardest for your rabbit or guinea pig, but once they have mastered a circle, you’ll both have the confidence to learn even more tricks. If your pet is struggling learning how to circle on command, try encouraging them to turn in the other direction. Like us, our pets are either left or right-footed, so the direction you ask of them needs to be in line with their natural inclination.
How to make rabbits or guinea pigs come when called
Another great first trick is teaching your rabbits or guinea pigs to come when they’re called. Not only is it endearing and impressive, but it’s also practical for your pet to approach you on command.
As with many tricks, the key to teaching your rabbit or guinea pig to come when called is food. Offer a treat when you are close to your pet while saying their name. Eventually, they will come to associate their name with the treat. The next step is to call your pet from farther away, showing them the treat. Repeat their name as they take their reward. After two weeks of this regular exercise of calling and treating, try calling your rabbit or guinea pig’s name without showing them a treat.
Moving on to more advanced tricks
Once you and your guinea pigs or rabbits have mastered a first trick, it’s time to move on to more advanced feats. The more tricks your pet learns, the more confident they will become — and the closer your bond will be.
How to teach rabbits and guinea pigs a ‘figure of eight’
Challenge yourself and your pets by encouraging them to walk in a figure eight between your legs. As with teaching them to circle, hold a treat in front of your rabbit or guinea pig while encouraging them to follow a figure of eight pattern through your legs. Reward them with the treat as soon as the pattern is complete. Some pets may need a treat halfway through their pattern to maintain their focus — but eventually they’ll learn to complete the figure eight before expecting their reward.
How to make rabbits and guinea pigs jump through hoops
To teach your rabbit or guinea pig to jump through a hoop, you’ll need a stick and some treats. Begin this method of stick-training, hold the tip of the stick near your rabbit or guinea pig. When they turn to investigate it, offer them a treat. This will reinforce the idea that the stick is associated with treats.
Once they’re familiar with this routine, hold a hoop close to your rabbit or guinea pig, slightly off the ground. Hold the stick on the opposite side of the hoop, and wait for your pet to hop through to the stick. Offer a treat as soon as they’ve completed the hop. Once your rabbit or guinea pig is hopping through the hoop toward the stick, you can offer the hoop without the stick. Reward them with a treat as soon as they hop through.
You can slowly increase the height of the hoop for rabbits, but keep in mind that guinea pigs will only be able to perform a slight hop. Rabbits can reach impressive heights thanks to their acrobatic prowess, so be sure to offer a challenge to them.
Remember: treats are in moderation
Don’t forget that the treats given to your pets are a part of their diet — and if you’re sticking to your daily training, you may need to incorporate healthier snacks as training-treats to make sure their diet remains balanced. Leafy greens, green beans, carrot tops, or herbs are all great treats that are both healthy and satisfying for your guinea pigs and rabbits.
Omlet and your guinea pigs and rabbits
Help your rabbits and guinea pigs reach their full potential and amaze yourself in the process. With Zippi Tunnels and Zippi Run Platforms, you’ll be able to teach your pets new tricks with ease, and give them the elements they crave in their environment between training sessions. And, with our outdoor rabbit and guinea pig runs, you’ll have the space you need to achieve all of your trick-teaching goals.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Older rabbits need a little extra care. But when exactly is a bunny ‘old’? It very much depends on the breed. Larger rabbits have shorter lifespans than smaller ones, which means they become senior rabbits sooner than medium and small breeds.
At what age is a rabbit considered old?
As a general rule of thumb, small rabbit breeds, which live around 12 years, are seniors when they reach 8. Medium-sized rabbit breeds live up to 10 years and can be considered senior at 6 years. The large rabbit breeds have much shorter lifespans – just 4 to 7 years – and reach old age at 4.
The shortest-lived rabbit breeds are like small pets such as gerbils, hamsters and rats, in that they only have a few months of senior status at the end of their lives.
How do you take care of an old rabbit?
Here’s how to make sure those senior rabbit years are as healthy and happy as possible.
Make sure you give them the right food
Rabbit care is largely about food, and a healthy diet is essential throughout a rabbit’s life. As your bunny gets older, you should consider buying specially formulated pellets or nuggets. There are several different brands, and they contain the optimal balance of vitamins and minerals for ageing rabbits. Older rabbits mustn’t gain too much weight – or, indeed, lose weight – during this dietary transition, so you should weigh them regularly to maintain the correct weight. In addition to the special pellets, senior rabbits should be fed lots of hay and fresh foods as usual.
Don’t add supplements to your rabbit’s diet
Rabbits get everything they need from a diet of hay, fresh food and appropriate pellets. Extra calcium, for example, can cause digestive problems or stones in the urinary tract.
Make sure your bunny gets plenty of exercise
Getting old doesn’t mean sitting around all day – rabbits of all ages need to move around to stay happy and healthy. A run will naturally allow your bunnies to hop, skip and jump, and a tunnel layout such as Omlet’s Zippi system is nothing short of essential. These run layouts keep your rabbit exercised both mentally and physically, which is all part of healthy old age. You can use rubber-backed mats on steep or slippery surfaces, to enable the rabbit to get a better grip.
Provide quiet spaces
Senior rabbits are less active than young bunnies and appreciate a quiet space away from the action. A cosy corner in the hutch will keep a tired rabbit happy, with lots of soft bedding, is essential. Incorporating ‘safe spaces’ in your run helps too. If you use a Platform, the space created has the dual purpose of providing a quiet corner high up in the run, and also gives your pet rabbit exercise as it climbs up and down.
Keep the hutch lined with soft bedding
Senior rabbits can develop pressure points and sores or a foot condition called pododermatitis. This is caused by hard surfaces or wire meshing on the floor of a run. Good senior rabbit care means looking after sore feet!
Keep bunny claws clipped
Senior rabbits tend to move around less, and as a result their claws can soon become overlong. Regular clipping is required. If you’re not comfortable performing this, ask your vet for help.
Provide shelter from the elements
In addition to that cosy corner in the rabbit’s hutch, some weatherproofing to shield your ageing bunny from the elements will increase the comfort factor, whatever the weather. A Zippi Rabbit Run Weather Protection cover is the perfect way of keeping the worst of the weather at bay.
Carry out regular health checks
Older rabbits are prone to dental diseases and other health problems. If your bunny loses its appetite, loses weight, salivates, produces fewer droppings or has swellings around the mouth, it could be a sign of dental problems. Ask your vet to perform a thorough dental examination. Arthritis can be an issue, too, and a bunny who has slowed down may benefit from anti-inflammatory drugs. Older rabbits may also soil their back legs, and this can cause skin problems or fly infestation. Again, the vet will be able to prescribe treatments to address all aspects of your rabbit’s health.
Reduce obstacles
A rim around a litter tray, or a tunnel that rabbits have to hop over to get to the other side of the run, can cause problems in older rabbits who can no longer hop over things. Rearranging the run furniture and providing easy access to litter trays indoors is the answer.
Take your bunny for regular check-ups
The best way of keeping on top of problems is prevention. A vet will be able to spot problems before they become debilitating and will usually be able to offer remedies and advice.
Getting old is part of life. A healthy rabbit will take it in their stride, though, as long as you pay attention to the little details that make all the difference.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Did you know that rabbits can enjoy a variety of fresh produce? In addition to their dietary staples, bunnies can safely nibble on nutritious garden vegetables and small amounts of fruit. Find out what fresh produce you should be feeding your rabbits, how much, and the benefits of offering them fresh treats.
What should I feed my bunnies?
First and foremost, rabbits should be fed a quality pellet diet made up mainly of timothy hay. The protein content should fall between 12-16% for most breeds of rabbits, and the fibre content should be at least 15%. Free choice access to loose timothy hay should always be available to help keep their digestion moving smoothly and keep their front teeth trimmed through continuous gnawing. Your rabbits should also have access to fresh, clean water at all times, which thanks to the Eglu Go Rabbit Hutch, is made easy. Simply open the single large door at the back of your rabbits’ enclosure to reveal the bedding tray and access the complimentary hay rack and water bottle.
Anything that’s offered in addition to these dietary staples should be considered treats. Fresh produce is a much healthier alternative to pre-packaged rabbit treats that are commercially available, but should still only be offered a few times a week. Rabbit-safe fruits can also be offered, but in moderation, as they are high in sugar. These foods are not readily available to wild rabbits – and while your domesticated bunnies may have all of their needs provided by you, their digestive system is still very similar to their cousins in the wild. By replicating the diet that rabbits stick to in the wild, you’ll help your pet bunnies maintain a healthy lifestyle.
Rabbit-safe fresh produce
There are several rabbit-safe foods that can be found in grocery stores, home gardens, or even in your own backyard. Fresh produce should be served in a separate feeder than their regular diet to keep their run clean. A hanging treat holder is perfect for serving up fresh foods to keep them away from insects and to give your rabbits a new angle on snacktime.
Some fresh produce is healthier than others, while some should be avoided entirely. This list isn’t comprehensive, but it includes the most common fresh produce that can be offered to rabbits.
Vegetables
Veggies can be offered several times a week, with a few exceptions. Spinach contains oxalic acid, which in high amounts can cause digestive upset in rabbits. Sweet potatoes are also a favorite among bunnies, but are very starchy, so they should be offered sparingly.
Vegetables that are safe and nutritious for rabbits include:
- Asparagus
- Bell pepper
- Broccoli
- Brussel Sprouts
- Cabbage – red, savoy and kale
- Carrot tops (more on carrots later)
- Cauliflower leaves and stalks
- Celery
- Chicory
- Cucumber
- Lettuce – romaine or green leaf
- Parsnip
- Radish
- Spinach (no more than once a week)
- Sweet potatoes (sparingly)
- Turnips
- Watercress
- Courgette
Carrots – not a rabbit’s best friend
Rabbits are so closely associated with carrots that it’s hard to fathom that they might not actually be that good for them. From Peter Rabbit to Bugs Bunny, fictional rabbits love carrots – and real bunnies love them too. But, carrots are high in sugar and calories, but lack the fibre needed for a rabbit to digest them properly. A carrot-heavy diet can cause constipation in rabbits, and make blood sugar levels rise dangerously. Carrots should be fed as fruits are – fine as an occasional treat, but only offered in moderation.
Fruits
Fruit should be offered in small amounts, no more than 1-2 times per week. Don’t offer fruit to rabbits less than 7 months of age, as their young digestive system may be upset by the sugar content.
Rabbit-friendly fruits include:
- Apples
- Bananas
- Berries – Blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and strawberries
- Kiwi
- Melon (without the rind) – cantaloupe, watermelon and honeydew
- Pears
- Tomatoes
Herbs and plants
Wild rabbits eat a wide variety of plants, and even wood and bark. There are many forage plants that you can feed your pet rabbits, but not all native fauna is fair game. Never offer a wild plant to your rabbits unless you’re confident in identifying safe types. And, always make sure that wild plants haven’t been sprayed with fertilizers or pesticides – most of which are harmful or even fatal to rabbits.
Herbs and plants that are safe for rabbits include:
- Basil
- Berry leaves – blackberry, raspberry and strawberry
- Clover
- Dandelions – flowers and stems
- Dill
- Grass – fresh stalks, not lawn clippings that may contain other plant matter
- Mint
- Oregano
- Parsley
- Plantain
- Rose – leaves, petals, and stalks
- Rosemary
- Sunflowers
- Yarrow
Dangerous plants and vegetables
Some fresh foods are bad for bunnies. These plants affect your rabbits in many ways, ranging from mild discomfort to being toxic even in small amounts. If you suspect your rabbit has eaten any of the following, keep a close eye on them and call your veterinarian if you notice any unusual behaviour.
Never feed your rabbits:
- Aubergines
- Avocados
- Bamboo shoots
- Beans
- Chives
- Garlic
- Iceberg lettuce
- Nuts
- Onion
- Peas
- Potatoes (sweet potatoes are fine)
- Rhubarb
- Tomato leaves (in large quantities)
Feeding your rabbits with Omlet
Finding fresh produce for your rabbits is a fun way to diversify their diet and deepen your bond with them. Offering their fresh foods in a Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder keeps their rabbit hutch and run clean and reduces potential waste. Or, build your bunnies a custom burrow with our Zippi Rabbit Tunnel System and strategically place their snacks along the way. However you choose to treat your pets, we’re here to support your rabbits’ healthy habits.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Rabbit owners often ask us if pet bunnies can swim. The answer is yes – but in many ways, it’s the wrong question. If you ask “Do rabbits enjoy swimming?”, the answer is definitely no.
Most mammals are capable of swimming, but not many actually take a dip unless they are forced to. We all know that cats hate water – but they can and will swim for safety if they have to. Rabbits are the same. In times of flood, or if chased by predators, they will sometimes jump in at the deep end and swim for it.
Which brings us to one of many rabbit myths. Bunnies have webbed feet – surely a sign of an animal intended for swimming? Well, no. The webbed feet are there to help rabbits hop and run – not swim.
What about all those swimming bunnies on YouTube?
A quick YouTube search will produce a list of video clips showing bunnies apparently enjoying themselves in garden pools; but you will struggle to find a clip in which the rabbit voluntarily enters the water. Some can be trained to do so, in the same way as a circus can train animals to do all sorts of things they wouldn’t otherwise choose to do. And that’s the main point – turning your pet rabbit into a circus act is inhumane.
In the various videos of swimming rabbits, the animals don’t appear panicked or distressed. But that’s just the rabbit’s way of surviving. It knows it can float, and it knows it can paddle to safety. It’s not going to thrash around and drown, and nor is it going to give any clues to how it’s feeling in its facial expressions. A rabbit serenely gliding across a garden pool is doing one thing only – surviving.
This has become a contentious issue, and there are even online petitions to prevent swimming bunny videos being posted online. As far as the signatories of the petitions are concerned, this is animal cruelty, nothing more and nothing less.
Healthy Swimming for Rabbits?
There is circumstantial evidence that some rabbits like to float in the water to ease arthritic problems, or simply to clean themselves and/or cool off. The only advice that can be given here – after taking such evidence with a pinch of salt – is to let the rabbit lead the way. A bunny who voluntarily takes a dip does not necessarily need dragging from the water and locking away somewhere dry and safe. The swimming is, no doubt, great exercise, just as it is for humans.
However, the fact that a rabbit enters the water may indicate an underlying problem – perhaps they do, indeed, have joint problems, or maybe their enclosure has an outbreak of fleas, lice or mites, something that might lead a bunny to desperate measures in the garden pool!
And the fact that it’s a garden pool presents another potential problem. Pools tend to have chlorine and other chemicals in the water, and these can irritate a rabbit’s eyes, nostrils and skin. Even untreated water can cause skin irritation if a rabbit remains wet for too long. Rabbits have very small lungs, too, and even a small amount of water breathed in by mistake can prove fatal.
If your pet rabbits voluntarily take to the water, dry them thoroughly after they’ve finished exercising. If you’re considering aquatherapy for rabbit joint-related problems, speak to a vet first.
The rule of thumb on this issue is simple – don’t put rabbits into pools or other bodies of water. Yes, they can swim; but no, they don’t like it. Usually!
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Here’s why the Caddi is the perfect choice for your treat-loving pets…
- The Caddi Treat Holder decreases the rate at which your pets will eat their treats. Slower treat release through the gaps in the holder means more satisfaction for longer, and prevents over indulgence.
- The Caddi Treat Holder swings around and creates a rewarding, interactive game to keep your pets entertained, which is especially great for rainy days! Your pets will love the stimulating experience of foraging for their treats, and enjoy hours of rewarding fun.
- The Caddi allows you to feed your pets treats without having to throw them on the ground. This improves run cleanliness, reduces food waste and prevents pests, as well as being a healthier solution for your pets. Simply hang the Caddi from the roof of your pet’s run with the plastic hook and use the string to adjust the height to suit your pets.
- Endless treat opportunities! With the Caddi Treat Holder you can feed a range of fresh greens, fruits and vegetables to your pets, you can use it as a hay rack for rabbits, or fill it with pecker balls for hens. Get creative and reward your pets with exciting new flavours in the Caddi.
- You can save 50% on the Caddi Treat Holder until midnight on Monday, just by signing up to the Omlet newsletter. It’s a great deal for you, and an exciting new treat dispenser for your pets! Enter your email address on the Caddi page to claim your discount code.
Now available for just $8.99 if you sign up to the Omlet newsletter!
Terms and conditions
This promotion is only valid from 12/08/20 – midnight on 17/08/20. Once you have entered your email address on the website you will receive a unique discount code that can be used at checkout. By entering your email you agree to receive the Omlet Newsletter. You can unsubscribe at any point. This offer is available on single Caddi Treat Holders only. The offer does not apply to Twin Packs or bundles with Omlet Peck Toys or Feldy Chicken Pecker Balls. Offer is limited to 2 Caddi Treat Holders per household. Subject to availability. Omlet ltd. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Offer cannot be used on delivery, existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
This entry was posted in Chickens
Some pets are pretty obvious with the way they show love and affection. A dog might be the best example of this; with a wagging tail, smiling face and licking tongue, dog owners rarely have to guess if their dog is excited to see them when they get back from work in the evening.
With rabbits it’s a bit more complicated. First of all, it often requires a bit more work to get your pet rabbit to trust you. As prey animals, they are naturally shy and cautious, and it may take a while before they warm up to new people. However, once they know you and trust you, they are extremely affectionate animals that love spending time with their owners. They might just have slightly different ways of showing it!
If your rabbits do all or some of the following things, you can be sure that they feel genuine affection for you.
They stop being nervous
When the rabbit is new to you, it’s normal that they seem skittish or jumpy. This is to be expected, and it may take a while before the rabbit realises that they are safe in their new home.
The first signs that your rabbit is warming up to you is that they stop some obvious nervous behaviours. Maybe they no longer jump back when you reach your hand towards them with some treats, stop running into the hutch whenever you approach or start to relax their body language. These may seem like small things, but they are steps towards your bunny feeling true love for you.
They groom you
When two rabbits live together, they lick, nibble and groom each other as a way of showing love and affection. If your rabbit likes you, he or she might start to lick you or your clothing, nudge your arm or nibble on your finger. This is a sign that you are seen as part of the rabbit’s family, and that they care about your health and cleanliness.
They want to be stroked
If you rabbit comes up to you and starts pushing their head against your hand or put their head on your arm it’s a sign that they love you and want to spend time with you. It means your rabbit trusts you know what you’re doing and won’t hurt them, and is a true signal that they love being around you.
They come and lay next to you
A rabbit that approaches you while you’re spending time with them in their run and lays down next to you is showing extreme trust, especially if they’ve got their legs sprawled out under them. This is a very vulnerable position to be in, so it’s clear that your rabbit trusts that you will look after them.
They run around your feet
The closest you will probably get to a dog jumping up to greet you when you get through the door is your rabbit running in circles around your feet, sometimes doing figures of eight between your legs. You might have seen this behaviour when you approach your rabbits with food or yummy treats, but many will also do it just out of excitement of seeing their favourite human.
They purr
Although it’s actually not purring in the same way as cats purr, but a grinding of the teeth that makes a soft humming sound and causes the rabbit’s head to vibrate slightly, it’s a clear sign that your rabbit is content. Normally this occurs when you’re stroking or grooming your rabbit, a time when your pet doesn’t have to worry about anything.
They do a binky
A binky can be described as a jump up in the air with the legs stretched out. It’s an expression of excitement and exhilaration, and sometimes you will see your rabbit doing this in your company. We dare you not to smile when you see a binky!
This entry was posted in Rabbits
We often get questions about whether rabbits will be okay outside in the winter. The simple answer is: yes. But things get a little more complicated when you consider the specific climate, individual rabbits, and their setups. We’ll share how you can safely keep your outdoor rabbits outside during the winter, and how to determine if and when it’s time to bring them inside.
Can rabbits live outside during the winter months?
Rabbits that are accustomed to living outdoors are well-equipped to handle the winter months. At this point in the year, you’ve probably noticed your outdoor rabbits’ fur looking mottled due to a process called moulting. Moulting in rabbits is a natural process that prepares their coats for the winter months ahead, and is triggered by the amount of daylight. So, if your rabbit is outdoors during summer and fall, the dwindling daylight hours signal them to start shedding their thinner summer coat in order to regrow a more dense coat for the winter.
Once they’ve donned their winter coats, your rabbits can withstand the colder outdoor temperatures quite well. In fact, rabbits are much more comfortable in the cold than they are in the heat. But, in order for their natural insulating layers to be effective, bunnies need dry, clean areas to shelter in.
In the wild, rabbits will warm up in underground warrens, or burrows, and huddle together for warmth. Domesticated rabbits need a similar environment – a draft-free, dry hutch to warm up in. The Eglu Go Rabbit Hutch was designed with this in mind. The twin-insulated walls offer protection from drafts while containing the natural body heat of your rabbits within. And, our hutch is designed to provide ample ventilation to prevent moisture buildup, which is especially important during the winter months.
But will they be happier inside?
It may be tempting to bring your outdoor rabbits inside for the winter, but the trouble with this is threefold:
- Bringing your bunnies inside for more than brief visits acclimates them to your home’s interior temperature. This makes it more difficult to move them back outside without shocking their system.
- The artificial lighting in your home will disrupt their biological clock, which may cause them to shed their winter coat too early.
- They will need indoor accommodations away from the hustle and bustle of your home activities. Rabbits may become stressed by stimuli such as televisions, radios, children playing, or other loud noises – especially around the holidays.
Rabbits that are well adjusted to their conditions and schedules outside will thrive much better staying in their home all year round – including during the winter. If your rabbits have lived outside for the rest of the year, save for a couple of caveats.
How cold is too cold for rabbits?
Rabbits don’t adhere to a particular rule when it comes to temperatures. What is true for most bunnies might not apply to others. Observe your bunnies as well as the weather in order to gauge how cold is too cold for your rabbits. If temperatures have been gradually declining over several weeks, your rabbits’ coats should be sufficient to keep them warm enough in even sub-zero temperatures. But, here is where the first caveat of bringing your bunnies inside comes in:
- If the temperatures have been mild for weeks, and your area experiences a sudden and brief cold snap, you may want to consider bringing your rabbit indoors.
This is because a rapid and temporary drop in temperature can be too much for a rabbit that hasn’t finished growing its winter coat. However, the addition of extreme temperature protection on your rabbits’ hutch is enough to bolster your bunnies through a quick cold spell. You can also move your rabbits to a sunnier area of your garden, or under the shelter of a garage or shed in the event of freezing precipitation.
The other caveat to leaving your bunnies outdoors is their health:
- Older rabbits, or those with health conditions that may affect their coats or metabolisms should spend seasons with extreme temperatures indoors.
They don’t have to miss out on all the fun though. Rabbit runs and playpens can be utilised both indoors and outdoors to create safe spaces. On mild winter days, your rabbits will appreciate a romp outside in the sunshine.
What can I do to help my rabbits in winter?
This advice applies if you keep rabbits in an outdoor rabbit hutch and run. If you’re moving your pets inside you won’t have to worry too much about protecting them from bad weather.
Regularly checking in on your rabbits is one of the best ways to ensure they’re in good health, and give you an idea of how well they’re handling the weather. But, there are some other ways you can help your rabbits through the winter.
Exercise
Exercise helps ramp up your rabbits’ metabolisms to help keep them warm during the winter. Make sure they have plenty of space and opportunity to stretch their legs and generate heat. Connecting their hutch to a Zippi Rabbit Playpen via our Zippi Rabbit Tunnel System gives them plenty of room to burrow, explore, and play.
Location
Keep your rabbits’ hutch in a place that receives as much sun during the day. Use clear rabbit run covers during the winter months to allow warming rays of sunshine in for your rabbits to stretch out. If your area receives a lot of snowfall, the addition of wheels and handles to your rabbit hutch allows for quick and easy movement to shelter or shovelled areas.
Bedding
You’ll find your rabbits spending more time in their hutch during the winter due to both decreased daylight hours and temperatures. Make sure to change their bedding frequently to keep them clean and dry. Choose a thick bedding like straw and provide a thick layer for your bunnies to burrow into.
Diet
Your rabbits should have unlimited access to timothy hay all year round, as well as a serving of quality pellets daily. To stoke their metabolisms during the winter, gradually add in alfalfa hay or pellets into their diet to provide extra energy. Other treats like leafy greens can be served in a Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder to keep it up off of the frozen ground.
You’ll also want to switch to a crock or bowl for their water during the winter months to prevent bottles from breaking in freezing temperatures. A bird bath heater or plug-in heated pet water bowl can be used to keep their water thawed – just be sure that the cords are not within your rabbits’ nibbling range.
Your outdoor rabbits with Omlet
Don’t stress over your rabbits during the colder weather. With our Eglu Go Rabbit Hutch, Zippi Rabbit Runs and Playpens, and Zippi Tunnel System, you can create a winter wonderland that both you and your rabbits can enjoy. With dry, insulated dwellings, your bunnies will boldly take on the chilly temperatures – and you will rest assured knowing they’re comfortable and happy not just during this season, but all year round.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
We often get asked which is the best cover for an Eglu run to keep pets comfortable all year round. Read our simple guide below so you know how to help your pets in all weathers!
Summer Shades
These shades are a thinner cover material which offers protection from the sun, without creating a tunnel where heat can build up inside the run. These are smaller than the winter covers to allow better airflow through the run for ventilation. Move the summer shade around the run to suit the time of day and your hens’ routine. You may wish to change this for a Clear or Combi Cover in summer when there’s rain on the way!
Clear Covers
The Clear Covers allow for sunlight to flood your pet’s run, while also offering protection from rain. This makes them ideal for spring and autumn, so the run is light and warm with sun, but also protected from unpredictable wind and rain.
Combi Covers
Get the best of both worlds, with shade from the sun on one side and light coming in the other, as well as full wind and rain protection on both sides. The Combi Covers are half dark green, heavy duty cover for extreme wind and rain protection, and half clear cover to let in sunlight and warmth and to let your pets see when you are bringing them treats!
Heavy Duty Covers
For strong, hard-wearing protection against the worst of winter choose heavy duty covers. Even when the temperature drops to single figures, the rain and wind batters your pets home, or a deluge of snow covers your garden, the dark green, impenetrable heavy duty covers offer sturdy weather protection. Your chickens or rabbits will be able to hop around the Eglu run in complete peace, without getting cold, damp or wind-swept!
Extreme Temperature Covers
Chickens and rabbits are very efficient at keeping themselves warm in cold weather, and the Eglu’s twin wall insulation will assist them by keeping cool air out and warm air in, but when temperatures plummet below freezing for multiple days in a row, they may appreciate a little extra support. The Extreme Temperature Blankets and Jackets add another insulating layer, like your favourite wooly jumper, without compromising the ventilation points around the coop.
This entry was posted in Cats
Are you thinking you might want to keep chickens and rabbits together? These two outdoor-loving pets actually share several similarities, and can live in harmony as long as their individual needs are met. Chickens and rabbits have shared barnyards across the world for generations, so with a little preparation and planning, you’ll be able to keep both in your backyard. Discover how to keep these two species together, and what to expect along the way.
Chickens and rabbits together
Both chickens and rabbits are very social animals that enjoy spending time with others of their own kind, their owners, and even each other. Chickens and rabbits require about the same amount of space, and their ideal temperatures and the amount of care they require is similar. One large area with dedicated spaces for their own food and lodging is ideal for keeping fur and feathers together.
But there are a few things to think about if you’re considering keeping rabbits and chickens together – just putting them together in a chicken run or rabbit run without dedicated areas would be a mistake. We’ll share our top tips for how to help your flock and fluffle share a harmonious existence.
Introduce them early
You are more likely to succeed if you start introducing the animals to each other when they are young, so that they are raised together. But no matter which age they are, you’ll need to start by keeping them on different sides of a fence or a run so that they can get used to each other. Omlet’s partitions for the Outdoor Pet Run are perfect to create this separation. When they’re ready to spend time face-to-face, keep them in a very large enclosure, so that no one feels threatened by the other species. Make the enclosure gradually smaller, until they are all in the run where you are planning to keep them permanently.
Watch for signs of trouble
Your chickens might try to peck the rabbits while they are getting used to their fast movements. This doesn’t hurt a fully grown rabbit, and should pass after a few days. Never put a very young rabbit in with a flock of adult hens, as they are much more vulnerable. If your rabbit hasn’t been raised with the chickens from chicks, make sure your bunny is at least 4 or 5 months old before making introductions. If you notice tufts of fur being pulled out, or distress calls coming from your rabbit, remove them right away.
Different dwellings
Chickens and rabbits have very different sleeping habits. Chickens will roost overnight, while rabbits will seek shelter at ground level. Having their own sleeping quarters will also prevent chickens from depositing their droppings on unsuspecting rabbits during the night. Your chickens should have their own hen house, and bunnies should have a rabbit hutch to retire to at the end of the day, or when they’re overstimulated.
Dietary requirements
While chickens and rabbits can share fresh produce and certain treats, the bulk of their diet is very different. Chickens require layer feed, while rabbits need pellets that are lower in protein that are composed primarily of timothy hay. They’ll happily sample each other’s feed, but this can cause digestive upset. To prevent this, make sure your chicken feeders are out of reach of your rabbits, and that your rabbits are fed inside of their hutch, or in a separate area that they can access via Zippi Rabbit Tunnels, which are not accessible by most chickens.
Rabbits are tidy
Rabbits are well known for their cleanliness. They strive to eliminate in the same place each time, and they will meticulously clean themselves with their tongues and paws. Chickens on the other hand don’t maintain a reputation of tidiness. They’ll drop their eliminations wherever they are at the moment – which will not impress your rabbits. Thankfully, Omlet’s chicken coops, chicken runs, and rabbit hutches are all easy to clean, so you can keep their shared space tidy with minimal time and effort spent.
Make sure there’s room
Having two species in one place might be space efficient on the whole, but make sure the run is big enough and equipped with toys and hiding places to entertain and calm your pets. The Caddi Treat Holder is a perfect food toy for both rabbits and chickens to share fresh produce, and Zippi Play Tunnels are a perfect small den for a tired bunny.
Safety in numbers
Since chickens are flock animals, and rabbits live in groups, they need the company of the same species. Always keep at least two rabbits together – even if they’re with your chickens. Rabbits groom each other, sleep together, and speak the same language, so it’s important to have a pair of bunnies. Neutered males, spayed females, or one of each are usually the most successful pairings. Male rabbits kept together should always be neutered to avoid territorial displays, including those made toward your chickens. Similarly, roosters in a flock of chickens will defend the hens, which may mean displays of aggression toward rabbits. When keeping chickens and rabbits together, avoid having a rooster in the mix.
Omlet and your mixed flock
We’ve designed chicken coops and rabbit hutches to be not just practical and functional, but enjoyable. By combining your chickens and rabbits together in a shared space, you’ll be able to enjoy the company of each of them without sacrificing time with the other. In a large outdoor pet run, you can create the ultimate spot to spend time with your chickens and rabbits, and benefit from the interaction that different species have to offer each other – humans included.
This entry was posted in Chickens
All rabbits, whether they live in burrows in the wild or in a comfy hutch and are kept as pets, are herbivores. This means that they exclusively eat things that come from plants, mainly grasses, seeds and vegetables.
The largest cause of illness in pet rabbits can be traced back to dangerous or wrongly proportioned feeding. Apart from life threatening gastrointestinal diseases, a poor diet can also cause teeth problems and weakened immune system, so it’s very important that you learn how to feed your pet properly.
HAY
A wild rabbit’s diet will consist almost exclusively of grass that they find on and around their warrens. As grass contains very little nutrition, they need to eat large amounts to survive, and spend most of their days looking for and munching fresh grass. Pet rabbits won’t be able to eat this much in a day, so their diets must be supplemented with dry food, vegetables and hay to get the calories, vitamins and minerals they need to stay happy and healthy.
A good rabbit diet should consist of about 80% good quality hay, and they should always have an unlimited amount available to them. They hay does not only give the rabbits the nutrients they need, it also helps them wear down their constantly growing teeth. It’s not enough to just make sure the rabbits always have access to hay; you must also limit other types of food, as they will often be prioritised at the expense of hay intake.
FEED
The most common types of feed for pet rabbits are pellets and food mixes. Pellets are always the better option here, as it has a higher fiber content (at least 18%, ideally 20-25%) and is not as high in fat and unhealthy carbohydrates, like sugar. Pellets also prevent selective feeding, as the nutrients are evenly spread in each pellet, so that you can be sure all your rabbits get the same food.
Only feed a small amount of pellets every day. As mentioned earlier, a rabbit that is fed too much other yummy things will prioritise these over the very important hay.
GREENS
Fresh greens are a great source of nutrients for rabbits, and the different chewing motions will help with wearing teeth down. Try to give your pet a wide variety of greens throughout the week, and aim for three different types per day. Some good examples include grass, clover, dandelion leaves, leaves from fruit trees, carrot tops and parsley. Spinach, chard, cabbage and sprouts are also nutritious, but must be given in moderation. In general, introduce new vegetables slowly, and look out for any signs of an upset stomach.
Make sure that the greens you feed your rabbits stay fresh by putting them in a treat holder, like the Caddi. This makes feeding your rabbits easy and hygenic, while also providing your pets with a fun and interactive experience of foraging their treats.
TREATS
Other vegetables, fruits and berries can be fed in small amounts every now and then. Avoid any “human food” containing sugar or salt, as well as nuts and seeds. It’s tempting to spoil your pet, but if it’s not done in moderation, your rabbit might end up obese and ill.
It’s also important to note that some fruit and vegetables are dangerous or even toxic to rabbits, and must be avoided at all times. Before you try something new, make sure you check that it is okay for rabbits.
CAECOTROPHES
In order to get the most nutrients out of the food they eat, a rabbit will produce small, dark, grape-like balls, different from the normal pellets, that they eat straight from their bum. It may seem strange to us, but it’s very important that they eat these extremely nutritious snacks.
If you notice lots of these caecotrophes scattered around the hutch, or if they are getting stuck in the fur around the rabbit’s bottom, it’s a sign that the rabbit’s diet is too rich. Try cutting down on pellets and add more hay, and contact your vet if the problem persists.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Summer is the greatest time of the year, but when the temperature rises it’s important to make sure your rabbits, and their home, are ready for the warmer weather. Rabbits are generally very hardy animals, but they actually tend to deal better with cold spells than with extreme heat.
It might be tempting to move your outdoor rabbits inside your air-conditioned house to help them stay cool, but sudden changes in temperature can actually be worse for them than staying outside in the heat. It is, however, important to know that rabbits can die from heat stroke, so make sure that you’re doing everything you can to prevent your rabbits from getting ill.
The Hutch
The easiest thing to do to make sure your rabbits are comfortable is to get them a hutch that stays cool even in the height of summer. The Eglu Go hutch has twin-wall insulation that keeps the heat out, and makes the temperature in the hutch stay relatively stable throughout the day. It also has a draught-free ventilation system that encourages air to flow through the hutch without creating a nasty draft.
Another important thing is shade. If possible, place the rabbits’ hutch and play area in a shady part of the backyard, ideally under a tree or next to a building that blocks the sun. If different parts of the yard are shaded at different times of the day you might be able to move the play area as the day goes on. This is very easy with Omlet’s Zippi runs and tunnel system. If you don’t have any natural shade you will need to add covers and sun shades to the run to make sure that your rabbits can be outside without having to be in direct sunlight.
Food and Water
Make sure that your rabbits have plenty of fresh water at all times. Consider changing the water several times a day when it’s very hot; rabbits are much more likely to drink more if the water is nice and cool, just as you would. Speaking of water, fill a few plastic bottles and put them in the freezer for a few hours. You can then place them on the run or in the hutch for your rabbits to lean against when they’re feeling warm. Prepare a few bottles so you can swap them around when the first ones have melted.
Your bunnies will also love to eat cool and refreshing things when the sun is out. Try washing the vegetables you are giving to your rabbits with cold water before you bring them out to the hutch.
Grooming
Other things you can do if you think your rabbits are finding the summer a bit sweaty is to remove all their excess fur. Brush your pets more regularly in summer to make sure they’re not carrying around unnecessary layers. If you think your pets are looking particularly hot you can mist their ears with cool (but not ice cold) water from a spray bottle. Do however make sure the water doesn’t get into the ear canal. Another important thing to think about is the rabbits probably won’t appreciate getting handled during the hottest hours of the day, so leave play time to later in the evening.
Fly Strike
It is also very important to know that the risk of fly strike is much higher during the summer months. Fly strike is caused by flies getting attracted to damp fur, urine and faeces and laying their eggs in the rabbit’s bottom. When the maggots are born after a few hours they eat the rabbit’s flesh and release toxins into the body. Fly strike can kill a healthy rabbit who just happens to have loose stools for a day or two, but if you know that your rabbit sometimes struggles to clean itself it is extra important that you check their bottoms daily. If you see any signs of fly strike, contact your vet immediately. The same goes for heat stroke. Don’t panic and dip your rabbit in cold water, instead take your rabbit to a cool room inside to try to lower their body temperature while you phone the vet.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Rabbits will most likely not show any signs of illness or pain before it is really serious, as any weakness would mark them as an easy target for predators in the wild. It is therefore important that you, as an owner, carry out regular health checks on your pet, so that you are able to spot potential problems while they are still treatable.
Always take your rabbit to the vet as soon as you suspect something is not right. A rabbit’s health can deteriorate very quickly, so don’t lose any time wondering if it’s worth it or not.
Body
Put a towel on your lap and place your rabbit on top of it. Stroke him or her to calm them down. When your rabbit has settled, you can start examining their body.
Feel the stomach to make sure it’s not swollen or distended, and go through the rest of the body for signs of cuts, bruises or lumps. Feel the muscles in the legs, they should be strong and firm. Any wincing or unexpected movement from the rabbit could be a sign that the body part you’re touching is causing your rabbit pain.
Check your rabbit’s breathing; it should not be laboured. Wheezing or clicking noises from the lungs can be signs of illness.
It is worth getting a set of scales and regularly weighing your rabbit. Sudden weight loss is a serious sign of illness, and a lack of appetite is a strong indicator of poor health.
Mouth and nose
The nose should be dry and not have any discharge. Check that the rabbit is not dribbling, and that it doesn’t have any sores or cuts around the mouth. The gums should be pink (a red or purple colour is a sign of illness).
Make sure the teeth are not overgrown or damaged. They should also be growing straight, and be uniform. You won’t be able to see the back teeth, but if you move your fingers over the cheek you can feel for lumps, and make sure that everything is symmetrical. Overgrown teeth are a serious problem as this can prevent your rabbit from eating, which is why it is very important to give them plenty of good quality hay to wear the teeth down with.
Eyes
Check your rabbits eyes to make sure they are clean and clear. You shouldn’t see any discharge or dirt. If you do, carefully pull back the eyelid to see if you notice any redness or pus in the eye; it is possible that the rabbit has scratched its eye. The eyes should also be dry; runny eyes can be a sign of teeth problems, or possibly ingrowing eyelashes or blocked tear ducts.
Ears
Rabbit ears should be free from any dirt, wounds, lumps, wax, discharge or parasites. Look inside the ears; you can use a torch if it’s difficult to see. Take extra care if you have a lop rabbit as they are particularly prone to abscesses around the ears. Carefully massage the base of the ears, where lumps can sometimes occur.
Feet
Watch your rabbit move around to make sure it’s not limping and doesn’t have any lameness in the legs. Pick up your rabbit and put him or her on your lap. It’s not a good idea to put a rabbit on its back, so hold it against you with one hand under its bottom. Try spreading the toes to check for scabs, abscesses or a build up of dirt. Also check the heels on the back feet. These should not be red or swollen. Check the fur on the feet and brush it if it’s matted.
Rear End
Check the fur around the bottom. It should be completely clear from faeces or other dirt. A dirty bottom can be a sign that the rabbit’s diet is too rich and that they are not eating all the caecotrophs they produce.
During summer you should check for any build up of dirt at least once a day, as a dirty bum can attract flies that lay eggs in the damp fur. This causes a condition known as flystrike, which can kill a healthy rabbit in a matter of days.
Also check the rear end for any swelling or redness.
Coat
With your rabbit sat on your lap, part the hair with your fingers and check for cuts and wounds, bald patches, anything moving, small brown dots or white flakes.
Even if you don’t have a rabbit that requires grooming on a daily or weekly basis it is good to get your pet used to brushing from an early age. Rabbits moult regularly, and you might need to help them get rid of dead hair from their coat during this time.
Changes in temperament
Sudden changes in temperament and behaviour is never a good sign. Maybe your rabbit doesn’t come running when you approach it with food in the morning, or is suddenly aggressive. These might be signs your rabbit is in pain.
Rabbits who reach sexual maturity can sometimes act very differently. Spraying is a common problem, as is aggression. Your rabbit might not be in pain, but it can be very distressing for them to go through this ‘puberty phase’. This might be a good reason to get your pets neutered as soon as they are old enough.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Many people with indoor rabbits would like to let them roam free in the house, giving them more space and including them in daily family life, but worry that they will have to spend their time picking up droppings and wiping up wee. They might however not realise that rabbits, like cats, can be trained to use a litterbox.
Preparations
If you haven’t already done so, you will need to spay or neuter your pet, as an unspayed or unneutered rabbit will be almost impossible to litter train. You will also need to keep the rabbit in a confined space until they’re fully grown. Unlike with dogs and cats, it’s much easier to train older rabbits, as their attention span and learning abilities are very limited when as babies or very young.
Litter training a rabbit can take some time, and accidents will most certainly happen, so make sure you have enough patience to get through the process with your pet. Rabbits, like most animals, will not respond well to any type of punishment, so never tell your rabbit off when he or she has done something wrong. This will only make them forget what they have learned, and they will be more reluctant to try again.
Choose The Right Place
While the rabbit is learning, you will need to keep him or her in a confined space in the house. Bathrooms or utility rooms are good places, but you can also set up a playpen, ideally in a room that is not carpeted.
You will most likely be needing several litter boxes further along in the training process, but start with one. If you notice that the rabbit keeps going into a different corner to wee or poo, move the box to their preferred place.
The Litter Box
Rabbits want space to stretch out in the box, so make sure you get one that is big enough. You will be able to find boxes specifically designed for rabbits, but the best option is normally a simple medium sized tray-type cat litter box. Just make sure the rabbit can easily hop into it.
Prep the box with a layer of absorbent litter. Carefresh is a perfect alternative as it soaks up any unwanted odeurs, but you can also use shredded paper or wood based solutions. Don’t use anything that will be dangerous for the rabbit to ingest, as they will nibble on the bedding. Make sure to also stay away from softwoods like pine or cedar, as well as clay-based or clumping litter, as they can be harmful to your bunny.
Put a good layer of good quality hay on top of the bedding, and add some of the droppings and urine-soaked bedding. This will guide the rabbit to the right spot.
Try It Out With Your Bunny
Let the rabbit into the training room or area, and stay with him or her. When you see them leave droppings or urinate, immediately lift them up and put both the bunny and the droppings in the tray. Talk softly and pet him or her. This should after a while hopefully get the message across that the litter box is the right place to go. Spend as much time as possible doing this over a few days. When you need to leave, put the rabbit back in the hutch or smaller enclosure. Repeat daily until you can trust them to know where to go.
When you think you rabbit is ready to move on you can gradually expand the area where the rabbit is kept. Don’t overwhelm them with the whole house at once, as that will only mean that the rabbit will forget where the litter box is, and all that hard training will go to waste.
Notice where accidents tend to happen, and put out extra litter boxes there. This might mean you have to move the rabbits cage or rearrange some furniture, but once you have got it right it will be worth it.
It’s important to note that very few rabbits are 100% reliable with their litter box. Accidents will probably keep occurring throughout the rabbit’s life, and that doesn’t mean that the training has failed. It is also normal for the rabbit to leave a few droppings right next to the box or sometimes urinate on, or over, the edge of the tray. Put a mat or some paper under the box to make it easy to clean.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Did you know that you can tell a lot about your rabbits’ health by looking at their droppings? Rabbit faeces should be very predictable in size, colour, and consistency – anything out of the ordinary could be a red flag for owners. We’ll tell you everything you need to know about rabbit poo, and when it might be time to call the vet.
Different types of poo
Rabbits actually produce two types of droppings, so recognizing what’s normal and what’s not can help you identify potential digestive issues with your rabbit.
Fecal pellets
This is what most people think of when you say rabbit poo. They’re small, round balls made up of mostly undigested hay. These droppings are relatively firm and dry, and they shouldn’t emit much of an odour. There will be lots of these to clean, so take the opportunity to see if they look normal. In fact, rabbits can produce between 200-300 faecal pellets every day.
Faecal pellets should be dark green to dark brown in colour. Their texture should be smooth and round, and they shouldn’t stick to the tray or sides of the hutch. Some rabbits may occasionally get a pellet or two stuck in the hair around their tail, but overall their droppings should be firm enough that this is not a common occurrence.
Cecotropes
These are not actually poo, but little balls of nutrition that the rabbits will pick up and eat again. This might not sound appealing, but they’re a vital part of a rabbit’s diet. So, should you see your bunny munching on these, it’s no cause for alarm – they’re doing as nature intended.
Cecotropes are formed in a part of the digestive system called the caecum. After the food moves through the small intestine, it’s separated into digested and undigested food. Food matter that’s been digested and void of nutritional value will go through the large intestine to be eliminated as pellets. Undigested food will be sent through the caecum where plenty of healthy microorganisms and bacteria will break it down into a form that the body will actually be able to digest. The result is cecotropes that the rabbit will eliminate and ingest again.
Most of the time the rabbit will eat the cecotropes as soon as they are eliminated. If you happen to come across these soft and shiny black balls clustered together like a small blackberry – you’ve found a cecotrope that your rabbit might have missed.
Problems with rabbit poo
Check your rabbit’s poo each time you clean the hutch for any new or irregular bowel movements. Examples of unusual faecal pellets include:
- Smaller or harder than usual
- A foul or strong odour
- Different colour
- Strung together with hair
Issues with diet
The main reason for poo-related problems is an unbalanced diet, or sudden change in diet. Make changes toward a balanced bunny diet, but make sure not to make changes too quickly to avoid digestive upset. A balanced diet for a rabbit consists of roughly 90% good-quality hay and a dish of quality pellets. As a treat, you can offer your rabbits small amounts of rabbit-safe fruits and vegetables or leafy greens in a Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder to elevate their snack time. Make sure your rabbits have access to fresh, clean water at all times to help keep their digestion moving.
Like humans, individual rabbits may react differently to different foods. If you notice your rabbit having very hard or fewer than normal faecal pellets, take it back to the basics. If your bunny is able to regulate their digestion on hay and pellets alone, slowly reintroduce supplemental veggies. Leafy greens like lettuce and cabbage are higher in fibre and easiest for them to digest. Fruits and veggies like carrots are high in starch and should only be offered in small amounts no more than a couple of times per week.
Help them with grooming
If you have long-haired rabbits like Lionheads or Angoras, it’s inevitable that they will ingest some fur during grooming – and what goes in, must come out. You may occasionally find your rabbits’ faecal pellets strung together with long strands of hair. If this occurs more often than once or twice a month, you’ll want to groom your rabbits more often. This is especially helpful in the autumn and spring when rabbits shed their seasonal coats.
Diarrhea warrants a call to the vet
Diarrhoea can be very serious in rabbits – especially during the warmer months of the year when flies are attracted to damp and dirty fur. Fly strike in rabbits occurs when fly larvae hatch from eggs laid by flies that are attracted to your rabbit’s soiled fur. This condition can be fatal to rabbits in a matter of days, so it’s important to address diarrhoea quickly. If their belly isn’t back to normal within 24 hours, it’s time to call the veterinarian.
Diarrhoea can be caused by a number of things, including:
- Dietary changes or poor diet
- Disease
- Stress
Rabbit droppings as fertiliser
Rabbits and gardeners have a complicated history, but rabbit droppings make excellent fertiliser for your garden. Rabbit droppings can be added directly to plants and flower beds right away – it breaks down quickly and doesn’t damage the plants or roots.
Rabbit manure contains 4 times more nutrients than cow or horse manure, and twice as much as chicken manure, but it doesn’t have as much nitrogen in it, which means that it doesn’t have to be composted. Rabbit pellets will continue to release nutrients as they break down, and will improve the structure of the soil. A rabbit hutch with a removable droppings tray makes it simple to dump your rabbits’ droppings directly onto your soil.
A happy home with Omlet
A relaxed rabbit is a happy rabbit, and Omlet understands how to make bunnies comfortable in their abodes. Our Eglu Go Rabbit Hutch is easy for owners to clean, making rabbit droppings readily available for gardening or disposal, and keeping flies to a minimum. The Caddi Rabbit Treat Holder makes serving your rabbits’ nutritious treats fun and easy, eliminating mess and stress. Keep your rabbits’ tummies and your workload in harmony when you choose Omlet for their home.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Upgrade your rabbit’s and guinea pig’s home with the range of Zippi Tunnels and Runs – now all with free delivery for a limited time only!
This offer is available on ALL Zippi Tunnels, Playpens, Runs and accessories, so you can create your pet’s perfect play area with free and fast delivery – ready for spring!
Use promo code ZIPPISAVE at checkout for free delivery!
Connect your rabbit’s or guinea pig’s hutch to a brand new run with the Zippi Tunnel System, perfect for providing your pet access to more space to play and exercise via the safe, predator proof tubes.
Available with a number of accessories to suit your needs, your very own Zippi Tunnel System can be easily designed with our online configurator, complete with lockable doors, hay racks, look out stations and more, or choose from one of our popular starter packs.
Designed to be easily connected to the Zippi Tunnels, the new range of Zippi Playpens and Runs provide a movable solution to giving your rabbit or guinea pig more space, making them happier and healthier.
The Zippi Playpen is an open style exercise and play space that provides easy access for children and pet owners alike and is great for interactive play. The Zippi Run offers a secure space for your rabbit to exercise unsupervised and comes with an enclosed roof and an option of underfloor mesh or a surrounding mesh skirt.
Don’t forget to complete your pet’s new play area with the range of Zippi weather protection so that playtime can carry on whatever the weather!
If you already have a Zippi Run you can now provide your pets with even more space, thanks to the Zippi Run Extensions.
Terms and Conditions
Free delivery promotion is only valid from 09/08/19 – midnight on 12/08/19. For free delivery use promo code ZIPPISAVE. This offer is available on all Zippi tunnels, accessories, playpens and runs only. Free delivery applies to order containing Zippi products to the minimum order value of $100. Offer applies to Standard Delivery Service only. Free delivery offer is not redeemable on pallet deliveries. Omlet cannot take responsibility for third party supplier delays such as courier service. Free delivery is only valid for orders shipped to Australia.
Subject to availability. Omlet ltd. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Offer is only valid on items from our Zippi range and cannot be used on existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
This entry was posted in Guinea Pigs
Cats and dogs (and humans) make noises to show others how they feel, want or don’t like. Rabbits do as well, but they mainly use body language to communicate with other rabbits, and with us. You will most likely be unable to understand everything your rabbit is trying to tell you, but by learning a few things about rabbit body language, you’ll be able to make life a little bit better for your pet.
Loss of postures and vocalizations can mean several things depending on the situation and can differ somewhat from rabbit to rabbit. It is therefore important to be able to take in accompanying signals that help you see what’s going on. Here’s how you can read the body language of a rabbit.
Your rabbit’s ear and nose
Rabbits use their ears to tune into what’s going on around them, and they can often be used as signals and are good indicators of how your rabbit is feeling. If the ears are stood up and are twitching, your rabbit is listening for something. If they are confident, it’s not dangerous, or not particularly interesting, they might only raise one ear. When they are relaxed, the ears will rest against the body, normally along the back.
The nose is also a good indicator of how the rabbit is feeling and how interested they are in what is going on around them. The faster the wiggling of the nose, the more attentive or agitated the rabbit is.
Happy rabbit body language
Fully closed eyes
Rabbits have very expressive eyes, and as they are prey animals, they will only fully close them when they are extremely comfortable and feel completely safe. So if you find your rabbits sleeping with their eyes closed, it is a clear sign that they feel at home.
The bunny flop
Your rabbit is rolling on its back with its legs in the air! This is a sign that the rabbit is really happy and relaxed, and the movement can sometimes be combined with a binky, which means that the bunny is running around and dancing madly, often jumping up in the air out of pure happiness.
Belly on the ground
The rabbit is lying on its belly with legs stretched out behind or maybe to the side of the body, with the head either up or resting on the ground. The rabbit is resting and is relaxed. The further the legs are stretched behind the body, the more comfortable the rabbit is.
Rabbit bonding body language
If the rabbit is grooming itself when you are around it can be seen as a sign that your floppy-eared friend trusts you. Rabbits are prey animals and will never take their eyes off what they think might be an intruder.
Circling
Sometimes the rabbit starts running around your feet when you’re in the run with him or her. This is a mating ritual, and a sign that your rabbit is in love with you.
Nose rubbing
Rabbits tend to rub their noses in a way to show affection, so if you find your rabbit rubbing their nose on you it’s a sign that they really like you. If they also throw in a little lick, you’re properly loved! Discover more about How Rabbits Show Love and Affection in our previous blog.
Territorial body language
Rubbing scent glands
If you have a new hutch or run, the rabbit will have to make sure that its territory is marked. Rabbits do this by rubbing scent glands on their necks against objects, spraying urine and scattering their droppings around the place. This behaviour normally stops once the rabbit feels at home.
Stressed rabbit body language
Eyes wide open combined with fluffed up fur and growling indicate fear. The rabbit’s inner eyelids might also protrude and become visible if he or she is uncomfortable.
Other common rabbit body language
The classic
Rabbit is sat with weight on the bottom, forelegs straightened and ears standing up. Your rabbit is checking to see what’s going on (p.s. – the Zippi Rabbit Platforms for Zippi Runs provide bunnies with the perfect view of what’s happening in their backyard!).
Head on the ground
If the rabbit rests its head on the ground, he or she is showing submission, and might want to be petted or groomed. In different circumstances it can also mean that they want to be left alone, so make sure to take in other signals.
The ball
Rabbit is sat rolled up with legs tucked, normally with ears resting against the body. They are sleeping or napping. Rabbits can sleep with their eyes open but prefer to keep them closed if they feel comfortable and safe enough.
Nose nudge
This can either mean “leave me alone” or “you’re in my way”. It is however also a sign of trust, as you’re not seen as a threat to the rabbit.
Nest building
If you notice that your female rabbit starts pulling out hair from their fur and collects hay in a specific place in the hutch, it’s likely that she is building a nest. Rabbits sometimes have false pregnancies, but if you think that there is a possibility that your rabbit might be pregnant, it’s worth contacting your vet.
Sounds
Whilst rabbits mostly use body language to tell us how they’re feeling, our floppy-eared friends also communicate via sound. Rabbits are relatively quiet animals, but they do make a few noises that you’ll be able to differentiate from each other. Here are a few of them:
Growling
A short barking growl is a sign of aggression, and indicates that you, or something else close by, is threatening the rabbit.
Screaming
If the rabbit lets out loud, piercing screams they’re likely to be very scared or experiencing a lot of pain.
Low grunting and grinding of teeth
This is the rabbit equivalent of a cat’s purring and means that the rabbit is content and relaxed.
Loud teeth grinding and chattering
If the grinding however changes into louder teeth chattering, the rabbit is most likely in a lot of pain.
Thumping
Rabbits drum their feet against the ground when they are afraid or threatened or want to make others aware of what is going on. Thanks to the rabbit’s strong hind legs, this can be surprisingly loud.
Now you can read your rabbit, you can build an even better bond! Shop everything your pet needs in the Omlet Rabbit shop including Caddi Rabbit Treat Holders, Zippi Rabbit Platforms, and more! And if you do notice that your fluffy friend isn’t behaving in their normal manner, or you have any concerns about their body language or general health, do not hesitate to contact your vet.
This entry was posted in Rabbits
Treat your chickens, rabbits and guinea pigs to a new home this January!
$100 off all Eglu coops and hutches with the promo code UPGRADE2019.
Terms and Conditions:
Enter code UPGRADE2019 at checkout to get £50 off your Eglu order. The promotion includes all containing Eglus, including the Eglu Classic Coop, Eglu Classic Hutch, Eglu Go, Eglu Go Up, Eglu Cube, Eglu Rabbit Hutch and Eglu Guinea Pig Hutch. Subject to availability. Omlet ltd. reserves the right to withdraw the offer at any point. Omlet cannot take responsibility for third party supplier delays such as courier service. Offer is available while stock last. This offer cannot be used on existing discounts or in conjunction with any other offer.
This entry was posted in Chickens
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