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Yes, chickens are great pets for families. They’re low-maintenance, social, and endlessly entertaining, and they come with the bonus of fresh eggs every morning. Compared to dogs or cats, the daily care commitment is more manageable, and children of almost any age can get meaningfully involved.
More and more families are discovering this for themselves. Whether you have a large or a compact backyard, a small flock of hens fits into family life more easily than most people expect. But before you bring home your first chickens, it’s worth understanding what’s involved, from choosing the right breeds and setting up a safe coop, to knowing what your kids can realistically help with and how to keep everything hygienic.
This blog post covers everything parents need to know before getting started.
Why Chickens Are Great Pets for Families
Chickens tend to surprise new owners. People expect them to be purely functional backyard animals, and then find themselves charmed by a hen that trots over when she hears your voice, or a flock that settles into a reliable daily rhythm your whole family can participate in.
Here’s what makes them such a good fit for family life:
No walks, no grooming. Unlike dogs, chickens don’t need to be walked or brushed. Their daily care takes around 10 to 15 minutes in the morning and evening, which is manageable even on busy school days.
They’re social and recognise familiar faces. Chickens form bonds with the people who care for them. Many hens will come when called and enjoy being gently handled, especially when raised with regular human contact from a young age.
Fresh eggs keep kids engaged. The daily egg collection is one of the most reliable ways to keep children invested in the flock. It’s a tangible, exciting reward that never really gets old.
They fit in most backyards. A small flock of three or four hens doesn’t require a large amount of space. As long as the coop and run are appropriately sized, chickens can thrive in suburban and even urban backyards.
Simple chores that kids can genuinely help with. Filling feeders, refreshing water, collecting eggs, and checking on the flock are all tasks children can take ownership of, which brings us to the benefits for them specifically.
The Benefits of Keeping Chickens for Children
Chickens offer something that most family pets don’t: a built-in daily routine with real consequences. If the hens aren’t fed and watered, they go without. That reality, handled gently and with parental guidance, teaches children a level of responsibility that’s hard to replicate elsewhere.
The benefits go well beyond responsibility, though:
Daily responsibility. Feeding, watering, and checking on the flock every day, rain or shine, builds consistency and follow-through in children in a way that feels natural and rewarding, rather than forced.
Understanding where food comes from. Collecting eggs from a hen your child has named and cared for is one of the most direct, hands-on connections to food production available to a family outside of farming.
Routine and consistency. Chickens need the same care every day. That predictability is genuinely good for children, providing structure that carries over into other areas of life.
Empathy and patience. Learning to read an animal’s behaviour, to approach calmly, to notice when something seems off, develops emotional intelligence that benefits children long after they’ve grown up.
More time outdoors, less time on screens. A flock in the backyard gives children a reason to go outside every day, not just when the sun is shining.
How Many Chickens Should a Family Get?
For a family new to chicken keeping, three to four hens is the ideal starting point. That’s enough to produce a good supply of eggs without the care feeling overwhelming, and without needing a vast amount of outdoor space.
Chickens are flock animals and get lonely on their own, so keeping at least two is always advised. Beyond that, the right number comes down to your family’s capacity and your available space.
A few things to consider:
More hens means more eggs, but also more feed, more cleaning, and more daily tasks. Consider what your family can realistically manage.
Think about space before you commit to a number. Each hen needs adequate room in both the coop and the run to prevent stress.
Start with a manageable flock, but plan ahead. Most chicken keepers find their flock grows over time, a phenomenon known as chicken math, so it’s worth choosing a coop you can grow into rather than one you’ll quickly outgrow.
For families just starting out, the Eglu Go and Eglu Go Up are brilliant starter coops for up to four hens. If you’d like to build a larger flock over time, the Eglu Cube (for 6 large hens) and Eglu Pro (for 10 large hens) give you the space to start with a few, with the knowledge that you can add a few more later.
Do You Need a Rooster?
No. Hens lay eggs without a rooster in the flock. You only need one if you want fertilised eggs for hatching.
For most families, a rooster is more trouble than it’s worth. They can be noisy, territorial, and occasionally aggressive, which isn’t a great combination when you have young children in the mix. Sticking to an all-hen flock keeps things calmer, quieter, and considerably more neighbour-friendly.
Choosing the Right Coop
The coop is the foundation of a happy, healthy flock, and for families, the right setup makes daily care feel easy rather than burdensome. There are a few things to prioritise:
Security
A predator-proof coop is non-negotiable, particularly in areas with known predators like foxes, quolls, and goannas. Omlet’s Eglu coops are built with strong heavy-duty steel mesh and anti-tunnel skirts that will keep your flock safe from unwanted visitors.
Easy access for children
Children are much more likely to stay engaged if they can actually reach the eggs. The Eglu Cube and Eglu Pro chicken coops from Omlet feature a side Egg-port that makes egg collecting simple and accessible, even for younger kids.
An automatic door
When choosing a coop, make sure it’s compatible with a smart automatic coop door. In summer especially, hens need letting out early, and that can mean a 5am start if you’re doing it manually. With an autodoor set to open on a schedule, you don’t have to go out at sunrise or rework the kids’ morning routine around the flock. It closes automatically at night too, so locking up is one less thing to think about.
Enough space
Overcrowded coops lead to stressed, unhappy chickens. Omlet’s runs are modular, so you can extend them as your flock grows. The walk-in chicken run is particularly well suited to families. It’s large enough for adults and children to step inside and spend time with the hens, which makes bonding with the flock a genuinely enjoyable part of the day.
Easy cleaning
A coop that’s difficult to clean won’t get cleaned as often as it should. Omlet’s Eglu coops have smooth pull-out roosting racks and droppings trays that can be wiped, scrubbed, and hosed off quickly, and children of most ages can get involved.
What Are the Friendliest Chicken Breeds for Families?
Breed makes a real difference when you have children involved. Some chickens are naturally calm and enjoy human contact; others are flighty and easily spooked. For families, especially those with younger children, starting with a docile breed sets everyone up for a much better experience.
Best breeds for families
Silkies. Fluffy, calm, and most love being handled. Their gentle nature makes them ideal for young children who want to get up close with the flock.
Buff Orpingtons. Large, gentle, and rarely peck. They’re one of the best first chickens you can get, and their laid-back temperament holds up well around busy, noisy households.
Plymouth Rocks. Curious and easy to tame, they’re a solid all-rounder for families who want a hen that’s friendly without being overly demanding.
Easter Eggers. A gentle temperament combined with the novelty of colourful eggs makes these a firm favourite with kids of all ages.
Bantams. These are smaller versions of regular chicken breeds, (e.g. Pekin Bantam) which makes them far less intimidating for toddlers and younger children who might be nervous around full-sized hens.
Breeds to avoid with small kids
Leghorns and Rhode Island Reds can be feisty and flighty, which can easily overwhelm young children. They’re not bad chickens, but they’re not the most forgiving choice for a first flock with kids in the mix.
Are Chickens Safe Around Kids? Hygiene and Health
Chickens are safe around children when a few simple hygiene habits are in place. The precautions are straightforward, and most children adapt to them quickly once they become part of the daily routine.
Key hygiene rules for families:
Always wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling chickens or collecting eggs.
Supervise toddlers and children under five closely when out with the chickens. They’re more likely to touch their faces without thinking.
Keep the coop clean. A well-maintained setup dramatically reduces the build-up of bacteria over time, and an easy clean coop like an Omlet Eglu is key.
Don’t allow children to kiss chickens or bring them indoors.
None of these rules are difficult to follow and will easily become a habit for children.
Chickens vs Other Family Pets: How Do They Compare?
If you’re weighing chickens against other pets, here’s how they stack up across the factors that matter most to families.
Cost. Chickens are significantly cheaper to keep than dogs. There are no grooming costs and no vet bills for routine care, which makes them a far more affordable long-term commitment for most families.
Time. No daily walks needed. Around 10 to 15 minutes of care in the morning and evening is enough to keep a small flock happy and healthy.
Space. A small backyard is sufficient for a small flock, making chickens a realistic option for suburban families who couldn’t accommodate a larger pet.
Noise. Hens are considerably quieter than dogs. They cluck and chatter, but they won’t disturb the neighbours the way a barking dog might.
Lifespan. Chickens can live five to ten years as pets, which is a meaningful commitment, but shorter than a dog or cat. It’s worth having an open conversation with your children about this before you get started.
Allergens. For families where children are allergic to cats or dogs, chickens are a brilliant alternative. They’re a low-allergen option that still gives children all the benefits of caring for a pet.
Eggs. A bonus no other pet can offer.
What Can Kids Do? An Age-by-Age Guide
One of the best things about keeping chickens as a family is that there’s a role for every age. As children grow, so does their capacity to take on more responsibility, and the flock grows with them.
Ages 3-5
Supervised egg collecting, watching feeding, and gentle supervised petting. At this age it’s about building familiarity and excitement around the flock, with a grown-up close by.
Ages 6-9
Filling feeders and waterers independently, naming hens, and starting to form real bonds with individual birds. This is where daily ownership starts to take shape.
Ages 10-12
Cleaning the coop with guidance, carrying out basic health checks, and keeping a chicken diary to track egg counts and flock behaviour. A brilliant age to take on genuine responsibility.
Teens
Full flock management: monitoring health, managing feed, and confidently introducing new hens to the flock. By this point, most teenagers can run the whole operation with minimal input from parents.
Starting young keeps children connected to the flock from the beginning, and gradually increasing responsibility as they get older builds real confidence. By the time a child reaches their teens, they’re capable of managing the flock almost entirely on their own.
The Mental Health and Educational Benefits
The benefits of keeping chickens extend well beyond the practical. Research consistently shows that regular interaction with animals reduces anxiety and stress in children.
A few of the less obvious benefits worth knowing about:
Real-world biology. Children learn about life cycles, egg development, and animal behaviour in a way that the classroom can’t replicate. It’s hands-on, observable, and genuinely fascinating.
Sustainability and food literacy. Understanding where food comes from, and having a direct role in producing it, builds an awareness of sustainability that sticks with children into adulthood.
Confidence building. For children who are shy or find social situations difficult, the quiet, non-judgmental company of a flock can be genuinely therapeutic. There’s no pressure, no performance, just a calm daily connection.
Consistent routine. The predictability of chicken keeping, same tasks, same times, every day, provides a structure that benefits children with anxiety or those who thrive on routine.
The evidence backs this up. Studies on animal-assisted activities have found meaningful reductions in cortisol levels and anxiety symptoms in children who spend regular time with animals. Chickens may not be the first animal that comes to mind, but the daily, low-pressure nature of the interaction makes them particularly effective.
Key Takeaways
Chickens are low-maintenance, affordable, and more rewarding than most people expect, with fresh eggs as a daily bonus.
The friendliest breeds for families are Silkies, Buff Orpingtons, Plymouth Rocks and Easter Eggers.
Hygiene is simple to manage: handwashing after handling and a clean coop keeps the risk low.
You don’t need a rooster. Hens lay eggs without one.
Children of all ages can get involved, from supervised egg collecting as a toddler to full flock responsibility in their teens.
With the right setup, chickens can be one of the most rewarding pets a family can keep.
Ready to Get Started?
Omlet’s range of coops is designed with families in mind. Eglu coops are predator-proof and built to last, with daily cleaning made quick and easy so the whole family can get involved without it feeling like a chore. The walk-in run gives your flock plenty of space to roam, with the added bonus that the whole family can step inside and spend time with the hens up close. And the Autodoor takes the pressure off busy mornings and evenings, opening and closing on a schedule so you never have to worry about forgetting.
Everything at Omlet is designed to make chicken keeping enjoyable, not a chore. If you’re ready to take the next step, explore our full range of chicken keeping supplies and find the setup that’s right for your family.
Garden chickens thrive when they have a balanced diet, space to forage, and the right mix of nutrients. For healthy hens and reliable egg production, you need to provide the correct amount of feed, ensure they can hunt for wild treats like worms and beetles, and supply essential nutrients such as protein for eggs and calcium for strong shells. Understanding exactly how much to feed your chickens each day is key to providing good garden chicken care.
How much feed per chicken per day?
On average, a standard-sized chicken such as a Rhode Island Red, Isa Brown, or Orpington needs about 120 grams of feed per day, which adds up to around 840 grams per week. Bantam breeds, being smaller, require less, while larger breeds may need a bit more. The most important thing is to ensure feed is available throughout the day so your chickens can eat little and often.
Feed Amounts by Chicken Size
Feed should be readily available all day as chickens naturally eat small amounts frequently, filling their crop as needed. If you restrict access, you may see a drop in egg production or changes in behaviour.
What Nutrients Do Laying Hens Need for Healthy Eggs?
Protein: Vital for egg production and feather health. Laying hens need at least 16% protein in their feed.
Calcium: Essential for strong eggshells. Oyster shell or a layer feed with added calcium is recommended.
Carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals: Support energy, growth, and overall health.
Allowing chickens to forage supplements their diet with insects, seeds, and green plants, providing natural sources of nutrients and enrichment. However, foraging alone rarely provides all the nutrients your flock needs, especially during times when natural food sources are scarce. Commercial layer feed is carefully formulated to deliver a balanced diet, ensuring your chickens get the right levels of protein, calcium, and other essential nutrients every day. By prioritising a high-quality feed and offering foraging opportunities, you help support robust health and steady egg production in your flock.
Feeding chickens in winter
During winter, hens need more energy to stay warm and active. Foraging becomes difficult as insects and plants are scarce, so your chickens will rely more on pellets and grains. It’s recommended to increase their feed by up to 50% in cold weather, which means up to 180 grams per chicken per day.
Chickens eat more when moulting, as they need extra protein to grow new feathers, so be sure to refill your feeder more frequently during this period.
Chicken Water in Winter
Providing fresh, unfrozen water is just as important as increasing feed during winter, as hydration helps chickens digest their food and maintain body temperature. An insulated chicken waterer keeps water fluid and at your chickens’ optimal drinking temperature for longer when it’s cold outside.
Winter Feeding Tips
Increase daily feed by up to 50% (180g per chicken)
To ensure your chickens are eating enough, use a chicken feeder with a window or clear panel so you can see feed levels at a glance. If you’re concerned about a particular hen, watch for signs such as lethargy, weight loss, dull feathers, or a drop in egg production.
Sometimes, bullying can prevent a chicken from accessing food, if you notice one hen being pushed away, consider adding another feeder to reduce competition. The Omlet No Waste Feeder has five separate ports, allowing multiple hens to eat at once which minimises bullying.
It’s also helpful to observe your flock during feeding times to ensure every chicken gets a fair chance at the feeder. If you see any chickens lingering at the edge of the group or hesitating to approach the feeder, this could be a sign of social stress or illness. Regularly checking your chickens’ body and monitoring their behaviour will help you catch any issues early and keep your flock healthy.
Signs a Chicken Isn’t Eating Enough
Lethargy or lack of energy
Noticeable weight loss
Dull or ruffled feathers
Fewer or smaller eggs
If you spot these signs, monitor the hen closely for a few days and ensure she has easy access to food.
Do chickens know when to stop eating?
Chickens are naturally good at regulating their intake. They rarely overeat and will stop once their crop is full. Free-choice feeders are safe to use, as hens prefer to eat little and often throughout the day.
However, chickens will often choose treats over their main feed if given the chance. It’s important to make sure their primary feed is always available and treats are given in moderation. Peck toys or treat caddis can help regulate treat intake and provide enrichment.
If a chicken stops eating entirely, check for signs of illness and consult a vet if needed.
Key Takeaways
Feed each standard chicken about 120 grams per day
Increase feed by up to 50% in winter or during moulting
Use a feeder with a window to monitor feed levels and watch for signs of undereating
Chickens self-regulate their intake and rarely overeat
Provide treats in moderation and use enrichment tools to keep chickens active
At Omlet, we offer feeders designed to make garden chicken keeping simple and efficient. Our feeders minimise waste, so you know your chickens are eating every pellet. With smart features like app-controlled feed level alerts and clear panels for easy monitoring, you can keep your flock healthy and happy with less effort. We also design chicken treat dispensers to help you provide enrichment, supporting your chickens’ wellbeing year-round.
Guinea pigs, AKA Cavia porcellus originate from the South American Andes, where they lived amongst the varying terrains of the mountains. Foraging comes naturally to this species as their ancestors spent their days exploring the rocky landscapes and grasslands to find their next source of food. And whilst these pets are not built for marathons, what they do need is a combination of hutch and run along with extra tunnels and accessories to provide them with plenty of exercise space and mental stimulation. Omlet’s guinea pig products have been expertly designed to encourage this instinct, ensuring that today’s household cavies get the exercise they need.
How do guinea pigs exercise?
Whilst small mammals of the rodent families may all look adorable, fluffy and vaguely similar, hamsters and guinea pigs do not have the same needs. Therefore, hamster-style wheels and balls are not required (and can, in fact, be very dangerous for guinea pigs). Instead, you should make sure that the floor area of your guinea pigs’ hutch is a minimum of 0.75 square metres for hutches containing two cavies.
The floor area is where they’ll spend much of their time, so the bigger the living quarters, the better. The indoor part of a hutch is only half the story, though, and guinea pigs need some outdoor space, too. It is recommended that they should have at least three hours each day exploring, filled with plenty of exciting exercise, where they can run, skip, and popcorn! This is easy to arrange if you combine a hutch and run, and an all-in-one living space such asThe Eglu Go Hutch for Guinea Pigs is the ideal option.
Guinea pig runs can also be linked to outdoor playpens using an arrangement such as the Zippi Guinea Pig Tunnel System. Whilst guinea pigs no longer have to search amongst the terrains of the Andes for food, this kind of flexible system allows you to construct anything from a simple A to B tunnel, to a full-blown maze with a delicious vegetable hunt, allowing them to practise this behaviour. Did you know that a guinea pig’s sense of smell is actually 25x better than humans?! Therefore, a tasty vegetable hunt using your Zippi Tunnel System, Zippi Shelter, and Guinea Pig Tunnels, is the perfect setup for physically and mentally stimulating your cavies!
For a pair of Guinea pigs, a one- to two-metre-square run provides ample space. If you can to give the pets more space than this, they will only really use it fully if it has plenty of tunnels and bolt holes to head for – guinea pigs don’t like to be too far away from somewhere safe and cosy, and will not usually roam in a large garden.
How do you exercise a guinea pig? – encouraging your cavy
Guinea pigs are more inclined to run around and have fun if they have companions to play with. So, rule number one for ensuring that your pets get enough exercise is to provide them with at least one playmate. In the wild, extended family groups could be at least10, but you should always keep the numbers to a level dictated by the size of the hutch and run. You need to get the mix right, as a male and a female will inevitably mate, which has obvious consequences in terms of space and mouths to feed.
Groups of males or groups of females are the best option. A castrated male will mix very happily and placidly with females, and any small disagreement and scuffles among your guinea pigs is unlikely to result in injury and is all part of their exercise routine.
Incorporatinghiding places in your run/hutch/tunnel set up is an important detail. Guinea pigs instinctively have one eye on a safe bolt-hole when they are out and about, and scurrying back to safety is probably their most strenuous form of exercise.
You can encourage your pets to scout around and stretch their legs by putting interesting objects in their run, such as a Caddi Treat Holder, wicker toys stuffed with guinea pig treats, chews, tunnels and simple hideaways in the form of terracotta caves and igloos. They will also play happily with the cardboard tubes from the inside of loo-rolls and paper towels, or a simple cardboard box, especially if these items are stuffed with hay and fresh veggie treats.
One of the things that gives guinea pigs such a unique character is their loveable combination of endless inquisitiveness and nervousness. They follow their noses, explore everything, and then dash back to safety, making those wonderful wheep wheep sounds as they do so. With this mixture of playing and bolting, their exercise needs are easily met – all you need to do is provide the hardware.
Guinea pig exercise is all about exploring and interacting. They are very sociable animals, moving around their enclosure in groups or dashing away on little adventures of their own. You can find everything you need for your fluffy friends on the Omlet Guinea Pig shop and for even more ideas on guinea pig exercise why not take a read of our Guinea Pig Activities blog?
Next time you’re about to throw away your empty egg shells, spare the food waste bin and keep hold of them. Many people use crushed up egg shells in gardening to add calcium to the soil, however we have another great way you can use egg shells to add to your garden. Many propagators or seed starter tubs are made out of plastic, which isn’t great for the environment. Why not use your empty egg shells to start your next batch of seeds?! It’s so quick and easy to do!
1. Firstly rinse out the shells, and then let them dry.
2. Once dry, fill the egg shells halfway with compost and sit them in the egg carton.
3. Sprinkle a little water on the compost and then add your chosen seeds to the compost.
4. Spread a thin layer of compost on top and drizzle a little bit more water.
5. Then place in a sunny spot indoors – a window ledge is a great place to start seeds.
6. Keep watering your eggshell seeds each night, and after a few days you should start to see them sprout!
Once they’re too big for the shell then transfer to a bigger spot to continue growing indoors or outdoors depending on the chosen seeds (see packet for details).
If possible, move the coop into a shaded spot, maybe under a tree or in the south-facing side of the backyard that doesn’t get as much sun. This means that it will be nice and cool when the girls want to go to bed in the evening, or if one of them wants to go in to lay during the day. The Eglu chicken coops are so easy to move that you, on a really hot day, could effortlessly move it around the backyard as the sun moves.
2. Don’t leave the water for too long
Your chickens will drink more in summer. To minimise the risk of algae in the water, as well as dust and dirt from the chickens, change the water at least once a day in hot weather. Place the drinker in a shaded spot on the run and make sure it’s really cold when you put it out.
3. Don’t overfeed your birds
Dried corn and grains take longer to digest than pellets or fresh food, which wastes energy and heats the body unnecessarily. The chickens will not need to eat as much in hot weather, and if they were to get hungry during the day, your backyard will be full of bugs and fresh green material at this time of year.
4. Don’t leave your chickens alone for too long
When it’s really hot outside it’s important that chicken owners keep an eye on their flock to look for signs of overheating. An open beak, panting and wings held away from the body are signs the chicken is hot. If you think one of your hens is really struggling, try dipping her bottom in a bucket of cold water. This will cool her down for a bit and allow the body to reset.
5. Don’t depend on water
You can leave a small paddling pool or shallow containers out for your chickens to cool down in, but it’s unfortunately not very likely your hens will use them. It might be better to create a mud bath in a corner of the run; chickens are much more likely to approach mud and sand to cool down than water.
6. Don’t play with your chickens
Interaction with the chickens might lead to more movement for them, which increases their body temperature. If you want to spend time with your pets, or need to pick them up for health checks, do so early in the morning or late at night when it’s cooler.
7. Don’t cover the run completely
Covering your chicken run with a lot of covers might seem like a good idea to create a shady spot, but if you don’t let air circulate, it’s likely to become a boiling tunnel of warm air. It’s extremely important to have ventilation, so that fresh air can move around. This goes for your coop as well. The Eglu’s cleverly designed ventilation system allows air to circulate in the coop at all times, keeping it nice, cool and fresh even on the hottest of days. Choose a few darker covers to give your pets shade on the run as well.
8. Don’t leave the eggs
You’re probably getting fewer eggs than normal during the warmest weeks of the year. That’s completely normal, chickens don’t lay as much when they are hot, and some go broody and stop laying completely. Although the eggs won’t go off if you leave them in the nest box of an Eglu for a day, eggs in the nest can encourage broodiness and result in egg eating, so it’s good to collect all as soon as you discover them.
9. Don’t put off cleaning
It’s always important to keep the coop nice and clean for your girls, but maybe even more so in summer. Parasites and pests are stronger when it’s warmer, including red mite, so make sure to use a bird safe disinfectant and cover roosting bars and perches in mite powder to prevent problems at least once a week.
10. Don’t treat all chickens the same
If you have a flock with mixed breeds or have had chickens in the past but now own a different breed, remember that different chickens need different care. Some breeds are much better than others at handling heat, and some really struggle. Read up on the breeds you’ve got here, and take extra care of vulnerable birds.
Most people would agree that the yolk is the best part of the egg. A double-yolker in the breakfast pan is therefore a very welcome sight!
Some hens lay double-yolkers every time, a genetic quirk that simply means two yolks are released into the system instead of one. However, hens that manage this impressive feat are rare, and no single breed has been developed to pull off the double-yolk trick every time.
The one-egg-with-two-yolks breakfast can still be yours every day, though, if you’re willing to pay extra for it. You may have spotted double-yolk ‘super eggs’ on the shelves of certain supermarkets – sold at a premium, of course – but these are nearly all from young birds, rather than the mythical Double Yolker breed. It’s worth pointing this out, as a Google search will lead to some interesting information about such a breed. But it doesn’t exist – yet!
Most double-yolk eggs encountered by chicken keepers come from young hens. Point-of-lay birds tend to produce a very small egg or two, and then a couple of double-yolkers, before their bodies settle down into a regular four or five eggs-per-week pattern. A double-yolk egg after this early laying stage is very rare in most birds, although some hens begin to produce double-yolkers again towards the end of their egg-laying lives. Circumstantial evidence suggests that the Rhode Island Red, Oxford Brown, Sussex, and Leghorn breeds have a higher chance of producing double-yolkers.
How Are Double Yolks Formed?
Hens’ bodies release a yolk approximately two hours after the previous egg has been laid. Once in the hen’s oviduct – the part of the bird’s body in which the eggs are formed – the yolk is surrounded by the white albumen part of the egg and then covered in hard calcium. If a hen has released two yolks side-by-side, the egg-forming process treats them in the same way as a single yolk, resulting in two yolks ‘trapped’ inside a single egg shell.
If double-yolked eggs are fertilised, the result is two chicken embryos in one shell. Most of these ‘twin’ eggs fail to develop properly, though, with only one chick growing beyond the early development stage, or with neither of them developing. This makes it rare for two chicks to emerge from one egg. Chicken breeders are advised to put aside the double-yolkers to prevent them developing, and in commercial operations most double-yolkers are sold to food companies that use eggs in their products.
How Can You Tell If An Egg Has Two Yolks?
You don’t need to crack the shell to find out what’s inside – you can spot a double-yolker by ‘candling’ the egg. The word candling comes from the ancient practice of holding an egg in front of a candle flame, but a small torch does the job just as well (although they are still ‘candled’ rather than ‘torched’!) If there are two yolks inside, they will be visible as two dark blobs against the bright light as it shines through the shell.
So, although double-yolkers are estimated to occur in just one per thousand eggs, the sheer abundance of point-of-lay hens means that they are a common sight on the plates of chicken keepers around the world.
Triple yolkers, however, are very unlikely to grace the breakfast table. This super-rarity is found in just one egg per 25 million!
1. You have created a social media page for your Hens
Let’s face it, when you invest in a chicken coop and purchase your first flock you have to share it with friends and family. Whether it is documenting first eggs laid in the coop to your gourmet recipes with your farm-fresh eggs you are posting it on Instagram, Facebook, or Twitter.
2. You find eggs throughout the house
As you start becoming more comfortable with your chickens maybe you decide to let them into your home. They never bother anybody and get along great with your other pets but occasionally you find a fresh egg in your fruit bowl or on top of your favourite armchair. Hey, at least you know they are comfortable!
3. A “staycation” is your idea of a holiday
When you invest in your first brood you feel like you are a second parent to theseanimals. You wash them, feed them, and make sure they are comfortable. Add that in with taking care of your own kids and the idea of going on holiday is the last thing on your mind. You would much rather set up a zoom background of the beach or the tropics, order in a favourite meal, and put your feet up. Ahhh!
4. You find yourself chatting with your chickens
Sometimes we just need a good therapy session with an attentive listener, and who better than your chickens. They will never talk back to you or judge you for your decisions. They may give the occasional nudge or peck for a pet but hey, it is cheaper than therapy.
5. You have pet names for your hens
After the first couple weeks of tending to your chickens you start noticing some have different personalities. Some are on the shy side, some are very particular about their feeding time, and some just want all of the cuddles in the world. What a perfect time to give them a name! Whether it is Rudy, Cleo, or Fluffy we don’t judge here because they are your pets.
6. The home is filled with fashionable fowl décor
Whether it is chicken cocktail napkins or a hen-tastic serving platter you or your friends have made sure that you have all of the latest in chicken-related home furnishings.
7. You have a carrier bag to transport your chickens
Maybe you need to take them to the vet like any of your other pets. Who says that they shouldn’t be comfortable? That is why you have the top of the line carrier to transport your chickens whenever they are unwell.
8. Dressing up your brood for special occasions
When you have spring chickens or fall fowls they must be dressed for the season. When Halloween comes around you wouldn’t put it past yourself to dress up your chickens in a matching outfit with your other pets.
9. Instead of walking the dog you find yourself walking the flock
Yes, there are harnesses for chickens because you have already researched it on Amazon. Maybe you have limited land and your chickens need to stretch their legs each day, so you take them to the local park to graze and get some fresh air. Totally normal, right?!
10. You find yourself building a chicken picnic table for feeding time
We have all seen the trend of building mini picnic tables for our squirrel friends in our backyard. If you haven’t just Google it and you will be entertained by these structures. Well, who says your chickens should have any less than the squirrels. You paint your own table to pour your chicken feed into each day so your chickens can chow down in style.
At the end of the day, we understand that when you decide to venture out into the land of chicken coops it can be a daunting process. Everyone has unique experiences and should be able to tend to their hens/ roosters in their own way. Your flock is part of your family so why skimp on their care and upkeep!
The very short answer to that question is probably no. If you give your chickens a good quality feed and some corn, and let them peck around the garden for insects and small stones they use to grind down their food they should technically be getting everything they need.
Any supplement should be given to your chickens as a complement to a healthy and balanced diet, and not instead of giving them good feed or sufficient space to live out natural chicken behaviours. However, just like you might boost your own system with some extra vitamins and minerals, there are some things that you can give your hens that will help them stay healthier and give them more energy.
Particularly useful at more challenging times, like around a moult or during a particularly tough cold snap, we’ve listed all the supplements you might want to have in your cupboard:
Grit
Chickens don’t have teeth, but use small rocks and stones to grind their food down. Most free range chickens gather grit naturally while exploring the garden, but if you for some reason have to contain your chickens to a smaller area than normal, or if their run is covered in snow, you might need to add grit to their diet.
Make sure to choose something that is chicken specific and will have the right composition and size of components.
Vinegar
Vinegar, normally Apple Cider Vinegar, is a great booster all year around. It aids digestion, keeps internal parasites at bay, and is mildly antiseptic. In the winter it’s also fantastic to use preventatively to keep respiratory infections away from your flock.
Choose an organic or unpasteurised vinegar that contains a substance called ‘the mother’. It’s a gel-like substance that grows naturally on the vinegar, and it’s the mother that contains the most powerful enzymes and minerals that make the vinegar so beneficial.
Vinegar can be added to the chickens’ drinking water, approximately 10ml per litre of water.
Garlic
As well as keeping vampires away, garlic has been used for its beneficial properties for centuries, and it’s a great addition to your chickens’ diet.
You can crush up a fresh clove or use garlic powder to add to the feed. It’s great for circulation, and can help with respiratory infections. It’s also said to help ensure a good appetite, so it’s ideal to give it to newly rescued hens that need a nutrient boost.
Herbs
Plenty of herbs and spices are said to have medicinal properties that will help your hens keep their immune system in top condition. Verm-X is a 100% natural supplement that helps maintain intestinal hygiene and keeps the hen’s gut and digestive system in great condition, which can help keep parasites and infections away.
Oregano, cinnamon, parsley, turmeric and ginger are other chicken favourites that will increase vitamin levels and aid the immune system, and that grinded down can be mixed into your chickens feed.
Calcium
Chickens use lots of calcium to build egg shells, so laying chickens can sometimes need a little more than they get from their pellets.
Choose a supplement that contains high levels of calcium and phosphorus and will strengthen the quality of your chickens’ eggs. This is especially important for ex battery hens or hens going through a moult.
Cats that are let outside have a shorter life expectancy than indoor cats. Sure, some outdoor cats live until they’re 20 years old, but on average, letting your cat roam free outside significantly increases the risk of injuries, accidents, and infections.
There are clear pros and cons for both indoor and outdoor cat, but certain factories can encourage the decision to keep your beloved pets indoors most of the time.
Traffic
Cats and cars don’t mix, and if you live by a busy road you might not want to run the risk of letting your cat out to roam freely. Even the cleverest of cats can’t assess speed from a moving vehicle, and you’ll struggle to train them not to chase a mouse over the road without first checking the coast is clear.
Indoor breeds
Some cats are just not made to go outside. Their fur might not be thick enough to handle neither sun nor rain, they are not agile enough to move around different structures and textures, might not have the street smartness to stay out of trouble, or will just never see the point of outdoor activities, like exploring and hunting.
Cats with FIV
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus is a very contagious disease that significantly lowers your cat’s immune system. If your cat has been diagnosed with FIV, it’s highly recommended that you keep him or her indoors to stop them from passing the virus on, but also to protect them from infections or injuries that their immune system can’t handle.
Wildlife protection
Letting your cats roam free allows them to express natural behaviours, and one of these is the strong urge to hunt. While no one really cares about the odd mouse cats kill, people can get very upset when they see your cat bringing home song birds, baby hares or rare lizards. Wildlife fans are often great opponents of cat predation, and even if you trust your neighbours not to hurt your pet, letting your cat out might create an uncomfortable glitch between you and the rest of the neighbourhood.
Cat thefts
Cat thefts are more common than you might think, maybe not surprisingly seeing how much some popular cat breeds cost. Thieves might keep an eye on your cats comings and goings over a few days, and lure them away when no one will notice.
It’s important to be aware that this does happen, and if you have an expensive cat you might not want to let it run free outside without supervision.
Illness and injuries
If your cat is sick or has hurt themselves in some sort of accident, the vet might have told you to at least temporarily keep them indoors. While this can be extremely frustrating for both cat and owner, it’s important not to hurry the healing process by letting your cat out too early.
If any of these apply to you and your cat, or if you for some other reason have decided not to let your pets roam free, you’ll be glad to know that there is a great solution that will both give your pet access to fresh air (which is highly beneficial to both their physical and mental health) and keep them safe: a cat run. The Omlet Outdoor Cat Run, or Balcony Cat Run, can be customised to fit the space you’ve got in your garden or on your balcony. It’s just over 2m high, so you can easily go inside to spend time with your cat in the run if you want, or you can leave them to play or rest in the sunshine while you tend to the garden.
The run can be placed on most surfaces, and you can decorate it with climbing toys and scratching posts to keep your cat active and entertained. It’s stable and secure, so you won’t have to worry about leaving your cat unsupervised for shorter periods of time.
Not having to walk your cat on a lead will mean he or she can be outside for longer, and by adding covers to your run you can make sure they won’t get rained on, or burn their skin in the sun.
In a cat run, your pet won’t get into contact with traffic or any other, potentially unfriendly cats. You will be able to limit and control how much he or she moves around to not over activate bones and muscles, and the risk of theft is greatly reduced. Not only will your cat be safer, small rodents and song birds can also live a slightly more relaxed life!
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Most people would agree that the yolk is the best part of the egg. A double-yolker in the breakfast pan is therefore a very welcome sight!
Cat thefts